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<blockquote data-quote="ET43" data-source="post: 22138" data-attributes="member: 62"><p>Right, pin your lug holes back and cop a load of this. The chemicals listed are extremely explosive, corrosive and generally very nasty, so if you choose to use them, do so out in the fresh air wearing a mask, eye protection and gloves. Also have a fire extinguisher handy, not that I'm trying to scare you or anything. It is my belief that acetone will not dissolve thick areas of tank sealer. It might work on something like Kreem, but that's about all. The chemicals listed should preferably be used only on metal fuel tanks, as pretty well all those mentioned will melt fibreglass. If they get on the outside of your tank you can kiss your paint job goodbye. It is possible that Vibrac's lacquer finish on his tank was resistant enough for surface contact and that's about all.</p><p>The chemicals are, Methyl-ethyl-ketone, as found in some paint strippers, Metylene Chloride, Dichloromethane, Xylene, Trichloroethane and Butanone. Some of these are available from the same people that sell sealers, but generally most folks do not know what they are selling, and prices do vary by enormous amounts. You will have to do your own brand research. Generally, if this muck is introduced into a tank, it will gradually break down the liner, which will come away in flakes, so the process has to be repeated often. Some merchants advocate putting nuts, screws, washers and bolts, - sounds like a joke - in the tanks and shaking it. One lunatic said that it was best to put the tank into a cement mixer, but I think that he wrapped it into a blanket first. Don't laugh, I'm just reporting the facts.</p><p>One could of course set the thing alight and burn the stuff out, or one could cut the bottom of the tank out, or even wash out the tank with Acetone and apply several layers of the correct liner and end up with a two gallon tank.</p><p>As to the fuel standing for a while, one could use a non alcoholic fuel stabilser which helps to stop condensation forming in the tank, and holds the water generated in the fuel in suspension. I would suggest that this additive would be essential as the EEC countries seem to be selling fuel that already has a 10% ethanol content in it, although I think that you can still buy sans plom in France, BUT, it appears that the pump handle colours are similar. Can any of our French members comment please.</p><p> As to GRP tanks, despite what the manufactures' say, it is possible to remove line material using the above stuff, but you must keep on prodding the inside of the tank, and just as it starts to go soft, get it out, wash the tank out and do it all again. How do I know, well, I have used Nitromores paint stripper to remove heavy paint from GRP tanks, but you must keep a careful eye on the surface as if left too long it will eat into the 'glass. If anyone wants the little article I wrote please contact me on <a href="mailto:philprimmer@btinternet.co">philprimmer@btinternet.co</a>, and I'll send you a copy. Good Luck. ET43 Caveat Emptor and all that.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ET43, post: 22138, member: 62"] Right, pin your lug holes back and cop a load of this. The chemicals listed are extremely explosive, corrosive and generally very nasty, so if you choose to use them, do so out in the fresh air wearing a mask, eye protection and gloves. Also have a fire extinguisher handy, not that I'm trying to scare you or anything. It is my belief that acetone will not dissolve thick areas of tank sealer. It might work on something like Kreem, but that's about all. The chemicals listed should preferably be used only on metal fuel tanks, as pretty well all those mentioned will melt fibreglass. If they get on the outside of your tank you can kiss your paint job goodbye. It is possible that Vibrac's lacquer finish on his tank was resistant enough for surface contact and that's about all. The chemicals are, Methyl-ethyl-ketone, as found in some paint strippers, Metylene Chloride, Dichloromethane, Xylene, Trichloroethane and Butanone. Some of these are available from the same people that sell sealers, but generally most folks do not know what they are selling, and prices do vary by enormous amounts. You will have to do your own brand research. Generally, if this muck is introduced into a tank, it will gradually break down the liner, which will come away in flakes, so the process has to be repeated often. Some merchants advocate putting nuts, screws, washers and bolts, - sounds like a joke - in the tanks and shaking it. One lunatic said that it was best to put the tank into a cement mixer, but I think that he wrapped it into a blanket first. Don't laugh, I'm just reporting the facts. One could of course set the thing alight and burn the stuff out, or one could cut the bottom of the tank out, or even wash out the tank with Acetone and apply several layers of the correct liner and end up with a two gallon tank. As to the fuel standing for a while, one could use a non alcoholic fuel stabilser which helps to stop condensation forming in the tank, and holds the water generated in the fuel in suspension. I would suggest that this additive would be essential as the EEC countries seem to be selling fuel that already has a 10% ethanol content in it, although I think that you can still buy sans plom in France, BUT, it appears that the pump handle colours are similar. Can any of our French members comment please. As to GRP tanks, despite what the manufactures' say, it is possible to remove line material using the above stuff, but you must keep on prodding the inside of the tank, and just as it starts to go soft, get it out, wash the tank out and do it all again. How do I know, well, I have used Nitromores paint stripper to remove heavy paint from GRP tanks, but you must keep a careful eye on the surface as if left too long it will eat into the 'glass. If anyone wants the little article I wrote please contact me on [email]philprimmer@btinternet.co[/email], and I'll send you a copy. Good Luck. ET43 Caveat Emptor and all that. [/QUOTE]
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