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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Advice on applying VOC petrol tank transfers please.
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<blockquote data-quote="Clay" data-source="post: 124955" data-attributes="member: 3621"><p>Hi, Sorry, only just read this thread but I've done quite a few of these now (I'm not a professional painter) and I learned the hard way what a few people above have said, which is that you must never flat the paint (or lacquer) before applying the water slide transfer. If you do, it makes the paint surface slightly porous so there's a very high chance that the lacquer seeps underneath the edges and causes slight wrinkling at best or, at worst, it gets completely raised and then you can't flat down the lacquer for final polishing without damaging the transfer. Either way, it's not good.</p><p></p><p>The other reason that you don't want to put the transfers on flatted paint or lacquer is because, for some reason, it highlights the clear edges of the transfer, whereas all you should see is the coloured parts so they look like they are painted on and not transfers. The edges should 'disappear'. You need the transfer to be on a gloss backgound to achieve this so maybe it's something to do with the way the light reflects through?.</p><p></p><p>The way I have learned to do it is to paint the entire tank with the base coat ie black in the Vincent's case. This can be whatever paint type you like, cellulose, two-pack etc. When it is dry and hardened (whatever time the manufacturers recommend) I flat it back, ending up at 600 or 800 grit wet n dry, and then apply the gold leaf pinstripe (a whole different technique that I won't go through here but it's not difficult once you get the hang).</p><p></p><p>Now you need to lacquer the tank before applying the water transfers. I actually put several coats on here, as if I'm finishing the tank. The reason for this is that the gold leaf is a pain to redo so I don't want any chance of sanding through it later when polishing and having to redo it, so I make sure it is well sealed in with a minimum of three good coats of two-pack lacquer. You need two-pack to ensure that your work is ethanol- proof otherwise the first time you fill up and drip, your hard work will start to dissolve - but make sure you understand the dangers of two-pack paint and make sure you have suitable clothing and breathing apparatus. </p><p></p><p>When the lacquer has hardened, I then flat it with 1200 or 1500 grade wet and dry (depending how orange peely it is). I then clean/panel wipe and spray a couple more light coats of lacquer. I say light coats because I want to minimise orange peel here and it is purely to seal the tank and make a gloss base for the transfers.</p><p></p><p>Let the lacquer dry completely, I allow 2-3 days but, again, it depends on the manufacturers instructions and then you can apply the water slide decals. Give them several days to completely dry.</p><p></p><p>Now you can do one of two things:</p><p></p><p>1. If you're happy with the surface ie the lacquer you applied it is perfect and flat and has no dust nibs which, in my experience, never happens, then you can can just go ahead and lacquer it (see below).</p><p></p><p>2. If you are not happy with the finish, which is the more likely scenario, flat it down with 1200-1500 wet and dry BEING VERY CAREFUL not to touch the water transfers. Sand very close to the edges of them but you can leave a border of up to say 5mm that you don't sand. I would always recommend using a rubber or sponge sanding block. </p><p></p><p>When you are happy with the surface, you are ready to apply the lacquer so prepare as you normally would, ie panel wipe/tack rag but be careful with the transfers. </p><p></p><p>Then apply a very, very light mist coat of lacquer, I stand maybe twice the distance away that I normally would and literally spray just a light dusting. Then leave it for 20 mins to half an hour. Touch a masked area to check that it is hardly tacky and very nearly dry then I do exactly the same again, maybe a tiny bit more and leave the same time. It should just about be starting to have a slight gloss.</p><p></p><p>If the transfers haven't wrinkled by now then you should be okay.</p><p>I then apply a slightly thicker coat but not a full one and let it dry 20 mins and then I spray another two or three coats as normal. (If you're scared, wait longer between coats).</p><p></p><p>Yes, it's a bit of a kerfuffle, but it's worth it when you have a beautiful tank at the end of it.</p><p></p><p>After the whole thing has dried for another 3 days or so, I flat back again and then cut and machine polish.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Clay, post: 124955, member: 3621"] Hi, Sorry, only just read this thread but I've done quite a few of these now (I'm not a professional painter) and I learned the hard way what a few people above have said, which is that you must never flat the paint (or lacquer) before applying the water slide transfer. If you do, it makes the paint surface slightly porous so there's a very high chance that the lacquer seeps underneath the edges and causes slight wrinkling at best or, at worst, it gets completely raised and then you can't flat down the lacquer for final polishing without damaging the transfer. Either way, it's not good. The other reason that you don't want to put the transfers on flatted paint or lacquer is because, for some reason, it highlights the clear edges of the transfer, whereas all you should see is the coloured parts so they look like they are painted on and not transfers. The edges should 'disappear'. You need the transfer to be on a gloss backgound to achieve this so maybe it's something to do with the way the light reflects through?. The way I have learned to do it is to paint the entire tank with the base coat ie black in the Vincent's case. This can be whatever paint type you like, cellulose, two-pack etc. When it is dry and hardened (whatever time the manufacturers recommend) I flat it back, ending up at 600 or 800 grit wet n dry, and then apply the gold leaf pinstripe (a whole different technique that I won't go through here but it's not difficult once you get the hang). Now you need to lacquer the tank before applying the water transfers. I actually put several coats on here, as if I'm finishing the tank. The reason for this is that the gold leaf is a pain to redo so I don't want any chance of sanding through it later when polishing and having to redo it, so I make sure it is well sealed in with a minimum of three good coats of two-pack lacquer. You need two-pack to ensure that your work is ethanol- proof otherwise the first time you fill up and drip, your hard work will start to dissolve - but make sure you understand the dangers of two-pack paint and make sure you have suitable clothing and breathing apparatus. When the lacquer has hardened, I then flat it with 1200 or 1500 grade wet and dry (depending how orange peely it is). I then clean/panel wipe and spray a couple more light coats of lacquer. I say light coats because I want to minimise orange peel here and it is purely to seal the tank and make a gloss base for the transfers. Let the lacquer dry completely, I allow 2-3 days but, again, it depends on the manufacturers instructions and then you can apply the water slide decals. Give them several days to completely dry. Now you can do one of two things: 1. If you're happy with the surface ie the lacquer you applied it is perfect and flat and has no dust nibs which, in my experience, never happens, then you can can just go ahead and lacquer it (see below). 2. If you are not happy with the finish, which is the more likely scenario, flat it down with 1200-1500 wet and dry BEING VERY CAREFUL not to touch the water transfers. Sand very close to the edges of them but you can leave a border of up to say 5mm that you don't sand. I would always recommend using a rubber or sponge sanding block. When you are happy with the surface, you are ready to apply the lacquer so prepare as you normally would, ie panel wipe/tack rag but be careful with the transfers. Then apply a very, very light mist coat of lacquer, I stand maybe twice the distance away that I normally would and literally spray just a light dusting. Then leave it for 20 mins to half an hour. Touch a masked area to check that it is hardly tacky and very nearly dry then I do exactly the same again, maybe a tiny bit more and leave the same time. It should just about be starting to have a slight gloss. If the transfers haven't wrinkled by now then you should be okay. I then apply a slightly thicker coat but not a full one and let it dry 20 mins and then I spray another two or three coats as normal. (If you're scared, wait longer between coats). Yes, it's a bit of a kerfuffle, but it's worth it when you have a beautiful tank at the end of it. After the whole thing has dried for another 3 days or so, I flat back again and then cut and machine polish. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Advice on applying VOC petrol tank transfers please.
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