The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
2012 Racer
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 35870" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>They are relatively easy to make. 1/4" plate. Cut the rough strip and place the serrated steel washer in a press to impart the imprint in the plate. As long as it is full depth I have not had one slip. Finish and install. the cable attachement is a bent piece of flat SS with a keyhole slot for the cable end. I safety wire it so the cable cannot come free.</p><p></p><p>The pivot to pull distance is 3.37" if I remember correctly. I have forgotten what the stock one is. If you go longer remember your lever will come closer to the bar as you do so. Make the cable stout. For racing I do not use the brakes much out of habit, but they work well. I could not get the brakes to work properly with the sping as installed in the photo. I took it off and the brakes worked perfectly. These are the 8" brakes.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af300/daviddunfey/100_0493.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 35870, member: 1177"] They are relatively easy to make. 1/4" plate. Cut the rough strip and place the serrated steel washer in a press to impart the imprint in the plate. As long as it is full depth I have not had one slip. Finish and install. the cable attachement is a bent piece of flat SS with a keyhole slot for the cable end. I safety wire it so the cable cannot come free. The pivot to pull distance is 3.37" if I remember correctly. I have forgotten what the stock one is. If you go longer remember your lever will come closer to the bar as you do so. Make the cable stout. For racing I do not use the brakes much out of habit, but they work well. I could not get the brakes to work properly with the sping as installed in the photo. I took it off and the brakes worked perfectly. These are the 8" brakes. [IMG]http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af300/daviddunfey/100_0493.jpg[/IMG] David [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
The Series 'A' Rapide was known as the '********' Nightmare?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
2012 Racer
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top