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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
1951 Black Shadow Restoration
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 133909" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Cyborg,</p><p>I know it is very easy to get stuck with assembling anything with Loctite , especially when parts are heated. With age I get clumsier with fingers so try to find more reliable ways for assembling. When you got a drill press you could do sort of pilot for those jobs so for dropping in bearings or shafts a drill press with adapter would be useful. Same with valve seat rings, only one try , so you need a piloted holder for the premachined ring to sink it in the 200 degrees head. So often Loctite may be blamed for getting stuck but it is too easy to handle the job a bit clumsy , better use some more equipment for fitting sleeves or so. Like sleeves from alu for 62mm roller bearings, pressed in on the mill cold with 620 Loctite applied on all faces, quick in one fast go. </p><p> Greg, I cannot see any need for taper rollers for not having cylindrical types, side by side for drive side - except when there is high axial load from helical gears when taper rollers are better than lipped cylinder rollers which got about same load numbers but only for low side loads. My combination of roller bearings on drive side is nice for assembling the engine finally, once you did all spacing correct. All rollers contained in outer races, one inner race lip next to crank web, then one hardened spacer for a real seal, no scroll, and the outer race no lip for slipping all through both bearings. Finally I did a special adapter, acting as outer lip for lateral position, pressing on inner races and carrying the triplex sprocket. The leftmost inner race can be from a NJ type roller bearing, but the lip turned off and race shortened for accepting an extra ring/lip - the said sprocket adapter, with ample face for the sprocket side loads from ESA springs. </p><p> I wonder how the standard ball bearing is fitted on standard components: Is it a push fit on the mainshaft so you just slip the lot through all items with the ball bearing already hot assembled in the case bore ? Or a puller needed to get the crank onto stops </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p>[ATTACH=full]39870[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 133909, member: 1493"] Cyborg, I know it is very easy to get stuck with assembling anything with Loctite , especially when parts are heated. With age I get clumsier with fingers so try to find more reliable ways for assembling. When you got a drill press you could do sort of pilot for those jobs so for dropping in bearings or shafts a drill press with adapter would be useful. Same with valve seat rings, only one try , so you need a piloted holder for the premachined ring to sink it in the 200 degrees head. So often Loctite may be blamed for getting stuck but it is too easy to handle the job a bit clumsy , better use some more equipment for fitting sleeves or so. Like sleeves from alu for 62mm roller bearings, pressed in on the mill cold with 620 Loctite applied on all faces, quick in one fast go. Greg, I cannot see any need for taper rollers for not having cylindrical types, side by side for drive side - except when there is high axial load from helical gears when taper rollers are better than lipped cylinder rollers which got about same load numbers but only for low side loads. My combination of roller bearings on drive side is nice for assembling the engine finally, once you did all spacing correct. All rollers contained in outer races, one inner race lip next to crank web, then one hardened spacer for a real seal, no scroll, and the outer race no lip for slipping all through both bearings. Finally I did a special adapter, acting as outer lip for lateral position, pressing on inner races and carrying the triplex sprocket. The leftmost inner race can be from a NJ type roller bearing, but the lip turned off and race shortened for accepting an extra ring/lip - the said sprocket adapter, with ample face for the sprocket side loads from ESA springs. I wonder how the standard ball bearing is fitted on standard components: Is it a push fit on the mainshaft so you just slip the lot through all items with the ball bearing already hot assembled in the case bore ? Or a puller needed to get the crank onto stops Vic [ATTACH type="full"]39870[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
1951 Black Shadow Restoration
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