The photograph shows how I turned the drums of the complete wheels on my 1928 Ariel using my mill. No lathes were injured in the truing. Both brakes worked perfectly afterwards, without the slightest judder of the brake levers.
H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Drum Brake and Shoe Tuning - Race Tech
- Thread starter yorchie
- Start date
Yes, the mill has plenty of room for this, tire and all. I was a bit concerned about possible chatter and damage with a milling cutter. Also the idea of fettling things in a fully assembled state seemed worthwhile.
If the drum is seriously out of round a mill or big lathe is the way to go. If the problem is just 5 or 10 thou in size, the Emery will get you there in fairly short order.
Sorry, I've forgotten the exact particulars of the lathe arrangement for arcing the shoes.
I have a hunch you will McGiver up something clever & sneaky for this.
Glen
I have a hunch you will McGiver up something clever & sneaky for this.
Glen
Milling is also perfect.
I always say uf more than 0.1mm out of true round.
One starts to feel it in the braking.
Bit depending how stiff the set up is.
I guess with standard vinnie brake plate it sets in at 0.5 mm.....
I always say uf more than 0.1mm out of true round.
One starts to feel it in the braking.
Bit depending how stiff the set up is.
I guess with standard vinnie brake plate it sets in at 0.5 mm.....
The limitation of milling is the same as that of Neway cutters, i.e. in the latter case any out-of-axial force bends the pilot and results in a valve seat that looks like:
Given the large diameter, turning the wheel in the mill offers plenty of opportunity to bear down on one side of the wheel "just a little" and create a non-cylindrical drum as a result. I offer this as a caution, not a reason not to do it. Be conscious of your the possible problem and you can avoid it.
So with under 0.1, Neal’s shoes and aluminum plates this should stop without judder.
Used an old axle for a mandrel. Cut down the backside of the axle to .750” and held it in a collet in the headstock.… so no %#&#*& runout! Run in reverse so if I screw up the nut holding the plate unscrews and the plate stops instead of having everything turn into chutney.
Used an old axle for a mandrel. Cut down the backside of the axle to .750” and held it in a collet in the headstock.… so no %#&#*& runout! Run in reverse so if I screw up the nut holding the plate unscrews and the plate stops instead of having everything turn into chutney.
It seems that when I set the top slide at 90 degrees (parallel to the ways) I frequently run into that clearance trouble with the tailstock. Plus often I need the extra travel in the Y axis with the 9” lathe. I do understand what you are saying. I keep the gib snug (maybe I should install a lock?) and keep the backlash taken up. Instead of buying a second (old) lathe, I should have sold the little one and bought one newer decent sized one.
Anyway… back on topic. Shoes turned…. on to painting.
Anyway… back on topic. Shoes turned…. on to painting.
A bit late in the day, but anyone in the UK Midlands has the option of Bob Coley in north Leicester who has proper drum skimming machine and also arches shoes to fit. Am I allowed to give his number on the forum or do you just PM me?
I've moved posts related to lathes, millers, etc and setup to: https://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk/threads/workshop-machinery-and-techniques.16908/