C: Clutch Comet Clutch Adjustment

[Philip Smith]

Hello,, I have a 1951 Comet, that has been fitted with the later Burman clutch as mentioned in Eddie Stevens latest book, on page 149. How to get the clutch to work without drag, especially when moving off ? It is fitted with split pushrods of the correct total length, and a roller. And then the ball bearing between the rod and the clevis fork. Is anything else required ? If you have any suggestions please let me know.

Has anyone any experience of the Honda clutch as sold by Conway Motors- is it worth the cost, ? And delivery seems to be slow as there are limited clutches available.

Thank you---

 

[Bill Thomas]

Hello Philip, Some are better than others "Burman Clutch ",
I am pleased with mine, Adjust it so the lever in the box is almost touching the inside of the outer case.
Make sure you don't have too much oil or too thick oil in the chain case,
Next time I go in there , I am going to weld a strip of metal around the drum,
To keep most of the oil away from the plates, Some other bikes have this.

T.T. Time Traveller Does a needle roller mod' To help the outer plate pull out square,
I fitted one last year.

Try and sort out a lever on the Handle Bar, To give you a good throw, Mine is 1.1/4" Pivot,
Fit a new Nylon lined Clutch cable and try for a good sweep, ie No tight bends.
Good luck, Bill.

 

[brian gains]

check for even lift of the pressure plate, i use a sharpie mounted firmly on coat hanger and look for it just kissing the pressure plate evenly when clutch is disengaged.

 

[erik]

I use Harley Davidson primary case oil with no additives.The clutch is perfect with no clonks of the gearbox and no slip since 15000 miles .Regards Erik

 

[erik]

And what I forgot is that I have changed the cork plates to the more modern one of the spares company.Erik

 

[Colin]

Before you start the bike, disengage the clutch and kick over a couple of times to ensure the plates are not stuck together. They can stick particularly if left unstarted for a while. Assuming the handlebar lever is separating the plates enough, but is" heavy " back off the spring pressure a tiny bit till slip occurs the retighten till slip is gone.
I use straight SAE20 for preference in the chaincase, but what Eric recommends will, I am certain, be fine.
As Brian says check for even lift, but if you are without any marker pointer, just kicking over with clutch lifted will reveal any wobble and slacking/tightening the appropriate spring screw can usually get it pretty even. Do this bit before releasing spring pressure as mentioned above.
Eventually you will be rewarded by an almost inaudible "snick" as it goes/changes gear. BLISS!!