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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Clutchplate
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 175101" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Alyson, that Horex colour is called "fishsilberblau" , pointing to prewar tests from other brands utilizing fish scales for that polychromatic effect. Postwar they came up with alu particles in paints, a lot cheaper to produce. Even early VW Beetles had some polychromatic paints on order. Funnily I could not find a lot in internet about fishsilberblau Horexes but they can be seen a lot at meetings, nowadays no big deal having them painted like this using 2 pack paint plus clear coat. </p><p> As to securing the ESA thrust plate I will try a tab washer there. You drill a hole in the plate for punching in the tab and bend the washer over a hex flat. Should do I hope - and no big troubles when undoing, no Loctite in there when you have to deal with locking the assembly safe enough for heaving on the screw/nut of the ESA. </p><p> The thing is you want next to no play in the splines on crank and splined adapter - a reason why I made splines on crank and pressure plate myself for perfect fit. With some play there will be minimal motion between nut and crank thread and all other parts in there. So you have to care for fretting between components and no amount of torque on nuts will be able to prevent this - same with clutch nut or rear sprocket nut. Just have some safety means like tab washers for keeping it all in place. Loctite can be helpful in places to fill any gaps but you have to care for acceptable disassembly at a later time - so think long about what type you get or any at all. </p><p> Drilling cam pinions can be discussed with some views: Lightness may look desirable and I drilled the dynamo sprocket for that reason. I did not do same to cam pinions believing lighter mass would only worsen noises from the alternating loads on gears when climbing up the lobe and dropping down past it in an instant by spring loads - the Vincent clatter from any backlash in gears. Maybe some mass in cam gear will be better in this respect ? </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p>Horex polychromatic:</p><p><a href="https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-e&sca_esv=558130159&hl=de&sxsrf=AB5stBjDs0cPXFoG49Kk-PvKOivgaFZrEg:1692369943350&q=horex+regina+fischsilberblau&tbm=isch&source=univ&fir=fbf-SSKPQBXgZM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253Be2l-dbCC6OFcfM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253BJcw8YevqcJyD2M%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253BT4UA-QL56vmmfM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253B8pMpNTG9730EZM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253B9JYzhsu1_i3ziM%252CK-wpfn7XuvPHtM%252C_%253BZmhroBht6p_-OM%252CftljERQUfVV1iM%252C_%253BRimeH9mt1srWUM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253BqLtFwP--1UTGgM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253BT6pCTlO-qyr0cM%252CxG_aK2gSiPr_rM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kQTHezwW8BrU6OoZTl3zZVyi4XO1A&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwio47SqueaAAxWCSfEDHT-UD3UQjJkEegQIGhAC&biw=1280&bih=871&dpr=1#imgrc=fbf-SSKPQBXgZM" target="_blank">fischsilberblau</a></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]60293[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]60294[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]60295[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 175101, member: 1493"] Alyson, that Horex colour is called "fishsilberblau" , pointing to prewar tests from other brands utilizing fish scales for that polychromatic effect. Postwar they came up with alu particles in paints, a lot cheaper to produce. Even early VW Beetles had some polychromatic paints on order. Funnily I could not find a lot in internet about fishsilberblau Horexes but they can be seen a lot at meetings, nowadays no big deal having them painted like this using 2 pack paint plus clear coat. As to securing the ESA thrust plate I will try a tab washer there. You drill a hole in the plate for punching in the tab and bend the washer over a hex flat. Should do I hope - and no big troubles when undoing, no Loctite in there when you have to deal with locking the assembly safe enough for heaving on the screw/nut of the ESA. The thing is you want next to no play in the splines on crank and splined adapter - a reason why I made splines on crank and pressure plate myself for perfect fit. With some play there will be minimal motion between nut and crank thread and all other parts in there. So you have to care for fretting between components and no amount of torque on nuts will be able to prevent this - same with clutch nut or rear sprocket nut. Just have some safety means like tab washers for keeping it all in place. Loctite can be helpful in places to fill any gaps but you have to care for acceptable disassembly at a later time - so think long about what type you get or any at all. Drilling cam pinions can be discussed with some views: Lightness may look desirable and I drilled the dynamo sprocket for that reason. I did not do same to cam pinions believing lighter mass would only worsen noises from the alternating loads on gears when climbing up the lobe and dropping down past it in an instant by spring loads - the Vincent clatter from any backlash in gears. Maybe some mass in cam gear will be better in this respect ? Vic Horex polychromatic: [URL='https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-e&sca_esv=558130159&hl=de&sxsrf=AB5stBjDs0cPXFoG49Kk-PvKOivgaFZrEg:1692369943350&q=horex+regina+fischsilberblau&tbm=isch&source=univ&fir=fbf-SSKPQBXgZM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253Be2l-dbCC6OFcfM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253BJcw8YevqcJyD2M%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253BT4UA-QL56vmmfM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253B8pMpNTG9730EZM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253B9JYzhsu1_i3ziM%252CK-wpfn7XuvPHtM%252C_%253BZmhroBht6p_-OM%252CftljERQUfVV1iM%252C_%253BRimeH9mt1srWUM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253BqLtFwP--1UTGgM%252Cik-nqZsWuicN1M%252C_%253BT6pCTlO-qyr0cM%252CxG_aK2gSiPr_rM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kQTHezwW8BrU6OoZTl3zZVyi4XO1A&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwio47SqueaAAxWCSfEDHT-UD3UQjJkEegQIGhAC&biw=1280&bih=871&dpr=1#imgrc=fbf-SSKPQBXgZM']fischsilberblau[/URL] [ATTACH type="full"]60293[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]60294[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]60295[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Clutchplate
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