Thank you to Vibrac, and others, for your advice. I do not have access to a lathe, or the equipment necessary to fabricate the new supports. So I will have to find a local engineering firm to do the job. In the VOC mag. of October 2021 Bill Parr sets out a similar solution, but without the extra bar up to the damper fitting. Anyone any experience of how Bill's suggestion would work without the extra bar ?
Misc: Everything Else 1951 Comet Seat Conversion
- Thread starter Philip Smith
- Start date
I have used the single upright rod each side approach for many years with no problems. I make sure that the bolts at the top and bottom of each rod are tight. There is nothing to stop you using that approach to start with and if you notice that the front seat brackets are starting to deform then change everything at once. It is just that I think that Vibrac's method is stronger and should never fail
Same as above, But I take the pivot tubes out of the 3 fittings,
So I can make the pivots NON pivot.
But don't forget now the wheel / mudguard will come up HIGHER / Closer, And could bang on the seat ?
So the seat should be higher than it was ?.
The tubes have to have a double bend in to miss the rear frame,
I used 4 rear seat top fittings and a bit of stainless steel bar,
On another bike I have used just steel tube etc.
Good Luck , Bill.
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My tubes are straight but I mounted the top to the outside of the rear bracket and made sure there was a tough spacer in the inbetween gap. I mounted flashing direction indicators to the spacer at the top of each tube
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Ha ha, There is always more than one way to do a job !,
I thought I would tell Philip the proper way
?,
But I bent the top fittings in the seat a nats !, And only made one bend,
I used solid stainless steel !, Had to drill and tap the threads,
With stainless, I find if I drill a bit bigger than I should, It makes it more easy on the tap ?,
They are under Compression, So works fine.
Bit of a Bodge !.
Cheers Bill.
I thought I would tell Philip the proper way
?,But I bent the top fittings in the seat a nats !, And only made one bend,
I used solid stainless steel !, Had to drill and tap the threads,
With stainless, I find if I drill a bit bigger than I should, It makes it more easy on the tap ?,
They are under Compression, So works fine.
Bit of a Bodge !.
Cheers Bill.
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I made a pair for my Shadowish but the rear of the seat ended up at 35" to get enough clearance for wheel travel (3" longer than standard seat, but thinner) which I really couldn't cope with, and being as I never carry a pillion I've built a single seat and still managed to dent the mudguard hitting a bump last month.
I don't in anyway want to appear hyper critical, but the rear wheel looks kinda lost somehow, detached from the rest of the bike, first impressions perhaps, I guess I could get used to it, but if it works, what the heck.
Also Chris is using a single Coilover , More movement than standard spring setup.
I welded some tabs on the F106 for the cantilever support. I did so primarily to make room for mounting a high exhaust pipe. It is best to remove the coil-over spring when figuring the clearance to the rear mudguard. I added 3/4" clearance to that position, to take care of the squish of the rubber bumper in the shock and any debris caught in the tread.
David
I have an AVO coil-over shock and also the long seat. I turned the lifting handle over which puts the handle a bit farther rearward and gives a bit more clearance between the handle and seatback. I often travel with a pillion passenger so it is doubly important to check for clearance at full bump.