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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Problem Reverse Bleeding Disc Brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="ClassicBiker" data-source="post: 168139" data-attributes="member: 1632"><p>While on the subject of fluids in motorcycles, recently an acquaintance at my veteran's club asked if I would look at his father's 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Drifter. It wouldn't go into gear and he was convinced the shifter forks were bent and he wasn't confident enough to pull down the motor. After doing a bit of research on the internet on these bikes I learned they have a "Positive Neutral Selector" that doesn't allow them into second gear or above unless the rear wheel is spinning. Dirty engine oil will add to the difficulty. So I supported the rear wheel, spun it and managed to get it into all the upper gears. So I changed the engine oil. After warming the engine I pulled the drain plug and what came out plopped out with the viscosity of cold molasses. Removing the oil filter, which in itself was a total PITA, revealed what appeared to be grass clippings or straw in the filter. Figuring I had cured the problem I popped into gear to go for a check out spin. Wrong. So I knew I could see the clutch through the oil fill, I had a look. I could see the driven plates spinning against the drive plates. Figuring the clutch was shot I went back to the internet to see what I could learn. Which was a good move as it saved my friend's father money and me time and work.</p><p>The clutch slave cylinder is located in the hottest area of the engine, next to the bevel drive of the shaft drive. Failure to change the brake fluid that operates the clutch on a regular basis causes all sorts of problems. In the clutch master cylinder is a little bleed off hole that regulates how much fluid the system pushes. So I used a pin to clear this hole, which resulted in a 6 inch squirt of brake fluid shooting across my garage. Now new brake fluid reminds me of vegetable to look at in color and viscosity. What greeted me when I had taken the top off of the clutch master cylinder resembled lumpy steak/HP sauce. I imagine this change was the result of dirt and moisture in the fluid. Well as the brake fluid was saturated with moisture and water expands as it warms up, the slave cylinder is in the warmest area of the engine, and the pressure relief hole was blocked, you can guess the issue. When the engine warmed up the clutch disengaged. So I flushed the system and went for a brief ride. If I hadn't been a firm believer in checking and changing brake fluid semi regularly I would be now. I asked my friend when this had last been done, the distant look on his face told me all I needed to know.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ClassicBiker, post: 168139, member: 1632"] While on the subject of fluids in motorcycles, recently an acquaintance at my veteran's club asked if I would look at his father's 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Drifter. It wouldn't go into gear and he was convinced the shifter forks were bent and he wasn't confident enough to pull down the motor. After doing a bit of research on the internet on these bikes I learned they have a "Positive Neutral Selector" that doesn't allow them into second gear or above unless the rear wheel is spinning. Dirty engine oil will add to the difficulty. So I supported the rear wheel, spun it and managed to get it into all the upper gears. So I changed the engine oil. After warming the engine I pulled the drain plug and what came out plopped out with the viscosity of cold molasses. Removing the oil filter, which in itself was a total PITA, revealed what appeared to be grass clippings or straw in the filter. Figuring I had cured the problem I popped into gear to go for a check out spin. Wrong. So I knew I could see the clutch through the oil fill, I had a look. I could see the driven plates spinning against the drive plates. Figuring the clutch was shot I went back to the internet to see what I could learn. Which was a good move as it saved my friend's father money and me time and work. The clutch slave cylinder is located in the hottest area of the engine, next to the bevel drive of the shaft drive. Failure to change the brake fluid that operates the clutch on a regular basis causes all sorts of problems. In the clutch master cylinder is a little bleed off hole that regulates how much fluid the system pushes. So I used a pin to clear this hole, which resulted in a 6 inch squirt of brake fluid shooting across my garage. Now new brake fluid reminds me of vegetable to look at in color and viscosity. What greeted me when I had taken the top off of the clutch master cylinder resembled lumpy steak/HP sauce. I imagine this change was the result of dirt and moisture in the fluid. Well as the brake fluid was saturated with moisture and water expands as it warms up, the slave cylinder is in the warmest area of the engine, and the pressure relief hole was blocked, you can guess the issue. When the engine warmed up the clutch disengaged. So I flushed the system and went for a brief ride. If I hadn't been a firm believer in checking and changing brake fluid semi regularly I would be now. I asked my friend when this had last been done, the distant look on his face told me all I needed to know. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Problem Reverse Bleeding Disc Brakes
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