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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Problem Reverse Bleeding Disc Brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="CarlHungness" data-source="post: 168033" data-attributes="member: 2517"><p>I have a 5/8" Yamaha master cylinder feeding a pair of Kawasaki calipers on my Shadow. I have tried to reverse bleed the system, pumping fluid up to the master cylinder as opposed to using the bleeder valves down below. I can't get the fluid to run up, I get back pressure. Conversely when I try the conventional method I get 'some' fluid coming out of the bleeders, but I would have thought I'd be able to get a full stream leading into my catch bottle. I can't get the fluid to flow that far at all, I get about an inch of fluid in the catch line and no more.</p><p> I am trying to change the fluid in the system, I went too long before doing so and the brakes we working at a highly lessened level. I sucked the fluid out of the reservoir, replace it and tried again to flush from top down with minor luck. Then from bottom up, with no luck.</p><p> I'm familiar with the method of cracking open the bleeder, pulling the brake handle, then closing the bleeder before letting off the handle.</p><p> I know I've replaced a goodly amount, if not all of the fluid in the calipers and lines through my top down method, but looking for suggestions.</p><p> I have a double banjo at the master cylinder and have heard they do hold a lot of air. I spent a very long time pumping the handle, looking for minute bubbles to rise, and then doing it again and again.</p><p> Wondering why I can't bleed from bottom up and why I can't get a full flush from top down.</p><p> Years ago when I installed the system the advice (on the inst. sheets) was to use Dot 3, which I did, and have come to realize</p><p>I would have been better off with Dot 4 or 5. Thus I wanted to change the fluid completely without removing everything from the system,</p><p>but afraid I have some Dot 3 left, so that's what I flushed with, and refilled.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CarlHungness, post: 168033, member: 2517"] I have a 5/8" Yamaha master cylinder feeding a pair of Kawasaki calipers on my Shadow. I have tried to reverse bleed the system, pumping fluid up to the master cylinder as opposed to using the bleeder valves down below. I can't get the fluid to run up, I get back pressure. Conversely when I try the conventional method I get 'some' fluid coming out of the bleeders, but I would have thought I'd be able to get a full stream leading into my catch bottle. I can't get the fluid to flow that far at all, I get about an inch of fluid in the catch line and no more. I am trying to change the fluid in the system, I went too long before doing so and the brakes we working at a highly lessened level. I sucked the fluid out of the reservoir, replace it and tried again to flush from top down with minor luck. Then from bottom up, with no luck. I'm familiar with the method of cracking open the bleeder, pulling the brake handle, then closing the bleeder before letting off the handle. I know I've replaced a goodly amount, if not all of the fluid in the calipers and lines through my top down method, but looking for suggestions. I have a double banjo at the master cylinder and have heard they do hold a lot of air. I spent a very long time pumping the handle, looking for minute bubbles to rise, and then doing it again and again. Wondering why I can't bleed from bottom up and why I can't get a full flush from top down. Years ago when I installed the system the advice (on the inst. sheets) was to use Dot 3, which I did, and have come to realize I would have been better off with Dot 4 or 5. Thus I wanted to change the fluid completely without removing everything from the system, but afraid I have some Dot 3 left, so that's what I flushed with, and refilled. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Problem Reverse Bleeding Disc Brakes
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