I had checked timing and it was set on the rear cylinder.
It the not being able to replicate the stumble when swapped that is bizarre.
It the not being able to replicate the stumble when swapped that is bizarre.
Misc: Carburettors Odd Amal 276 Carburettor Issues
- Thread starter Whiteshadow15
- Start date
When you say the carbs were sonic cleaned........were they pulled apart or left in one piece.........were all the passageways including the mixture screws removed and all blown through with compressed air.........You said they came off a running bike, so something has changed. Perhaps they were removed from this other bike because of a fault they could not find either.
Every part was removed when cleaned. And it’s quite possible. I patched up the stress cracks and ended up leaning out the needle as the rear plug was rich, it seems to have great power now but the temps are still wildly off.
Just ran a few trouble free miles and the front head was around 340*f and the rear was roughly 220*f I can’t imagine the gap is normal but maybe I shouldn’t worry too much for now? It is a total rebuild and has just a notch of 50 miles on it, granted many more heat cycles.
Just ran a few trouble free miles and the front head was around 340*f and the rear was roughly 220*f I can’t imagine the gap is normal but maybe I shouldn’t worry too much for now? It is a total rebuild and has just a notch of 50 miles on it, granted many more heat cycles.
You recently said you did not swap the slides front to rear when you changed the carbs. One carb may be very rich , one allright. So when one slide cutout and needle are rich as well and goes on a rich carb the engine will be extremely rich. Or if you look at the lean side and combine all lean components the engine may quit running. So do another test with swapped slides and see what it does then.
Have a good look at both slides and needles and check all sizes for differences which might lead to funny effects.
Vic
Have a good look at both slides and needles and check all sizes for differences which might lead to funny effects.
Vic
Hi Greg, I have symptoms (amal 276) of blocked pilot jet, where do I put compressed air to clear it? And how to check if it is clear without removing jet block?
TIA peter killow
An ineffective pilot jet (adjustment) could be a blockage in the jet although not a common fault that I've found........well not on the 276 carb's anyway.......The base gasket is a first looker, this is the large one above the main large cap nut that screws directly to the main carb body......if the ID of this gasket is wrong (too small) it will block off the fuel feed to the pilot circuit........another common one is a poorly fitting carb to the manifold stub........air leaks from here will make the pilot adjustment difficult.......a leak will lean the mixture and if the screw is would fully home, then a leak here or very worn carb slide is the problem........lastly, a low float level can cause adjustment issues as well.......With the lower cap nut i mentioned before......there are about 4 different heights of these nuts, all of which will alter the float level........With the adjustment screw removed, and if the lower cap nut is also removed, by blowing compressed air into the screw hole on the side of the carby, you should feel some air blowing from the small passageway at the forward side of the brass jet block on the underside......forward of the needle/main jets in the center.......With an as new carb with all things being well, the screw should be set at 1 1/4 turns out from fully seated........a worn carb will need the screw wound in from this setting.......usually anything from a half to one turn out is the norm........Good luck with it.......Cheers.
Thank you, all noted.
I blew air into adjuster screw hole (carb on bench) and got air out of the hole next to jets in base of jet block, so hoping that's clear. So it's going back on the bike to try.
Cheers
