C: Clutch Clutch Identification

nigsey

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Could someone kindly identify the type of multiplate clutch I have in my C twin please? Reasoning for dismantling is because I was running out of adjustment and it was squeaking when in motion and when I disengaged the clutch lever. Also, the tunnel that houses the clutch pushrods needs cleaning up as it looks rusty, once I’ve done this, should I smear something on the rods to help prevent a recurrence? Thank you. Nigel Davis
 

Attachments

  • CC255C1E-58C5-4FC6-A558-A3976F047166.jpeg
    CC255C1E-58C5-4FC6-A558-A3976F047166.jpeg
    316.4 KB · Views: 29
  • 6F93C0A3-058A-4ABC-B57F-EFE884010B92.jpeg
    6F93C0A3-058A-4ABC-B57F-EFE884010B92.jpeg
    224.1 KB · Views: 28

BigEd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
Could someone kindly identify the type of multiplate clutch I have in my C twin please? Reasoning for dismantling is because I was running out of adjustment and it was squeaking when in motion and when I disengaged the clutch lever. Also, the tunnel that houses the clutch pushrods needs cleaning up as it looks rusty, once I’ve done this, should I smear something on the rods to help prevent a recurrence? Thank you. Nigel Davis
Looks as if it might be the multi-plate clutch the Spares Co sells as a replacement for the original Vincent B\C\D clutch.
 

ericg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Could someone kindly identify the type of multiplate clutch I have in my C twin please? Reasoning for dismantling is because I was running out of adjustment and it was squeaking when in motion and when I disengaged the clutch lever. Also, the tunnel that houses the clutch pushrods needs cleaning up as it looks rusty, once I’ve done this, should I smear something on the rods to help prevent a recurrence? Thank you. Nigel Davis
As all mechanical parts a clutch pushrod needs lubrification, as smear of grease will do.
Cheers.
 

nigsey

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Many thanks BigEd and ericg. Just removed the pushrods and noticed one has a step in it and a taper at the pivot arm end, need a replacement, plus the pivot arm itself has worn badly where the pushrod buts up against it. I have a spare pivot arm so will fit that. Guess this is a common problem. Nigel
 

BigEd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
Many thanks BigEd and ericg. Just removed the pushrods and noticed one has a step in it and a taper at the pivot arm end, need a replacement, plus the pivot arm itself has worn badly where the pushrod buts up against it. I have a spare pivot arm so will fit that. Guess this is a common problem. Nigel
The pivot arm can be built up with stellite or other hard surfacing material. If you make up a new pushrod, (silver steel) don't forget to harden the ends by heating and quenching when you have cut it to length. If you have the pushrod in two bits you can put a 1/4" roller or ball bearing between the two bits.
The Spares Company sell a special ET27/2SS clutch adjuster that gives a little more lift at the clutch end should you need it. You need to remove the gear cover to fit it as it screws in from the inside. Clutch Adj multi plate clutch
 

Nigel Spaxman

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
It looks the same as the clutch I have that I thought was a V2. I bought my clutch from floggers corner in MPH about 10 years ago. I put some Kevlar clutch plates from Barnett in mine, apparently they are the same plates that fit some Harleys and some Kawasakis as well. I run mine wet, the inside of my primary cover is hollowed out. and it works really well. I use just four springs, that is enough to transmit all the torque the bike has, with three springs it's not quite enough. With all 6 springs the lever pull is more so I prefer four springs. These clutches need a bit more lift than the original one. There are several ways of achieving that.
 

nigsey

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
It looks the same as the clutch I have that I thought was a V2. I bought my clutch from floggers corner in MPH about 10 years ago. I put some Kevlar clutch plates from Barnett in mine, apparently they are the same plates that fit some Harleys and some Kawasakis as well. I run mine wet, the inside of my primary cover is hollowed out. and it works really well. I use just four springs, that is enough to transmit all the torque the bike has, with three springs it's not quite enough. With all 6 springs the lever pull is more so I prefer four springs. These clutches need a bit more lift than the original one. There are several ways of achieving that.
Thanks Nigel, my dry clutch is very light at the handlebar lever so I’ve been quite happy with it with a six spring set up, i.e. no slip or drag. I just ran out of adjustment caused I think by wear on the pivot arm where the pushrod buts up to it. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of meat left on the ‘cork’ plates but then I don’t know how much is on them when they’re new anyway.
 
Top