Has anyone a photo/illustration of how the wiring loom is run from the Alton, along (under?over?) the oil tank and out into the headlight. What are the ties made from? The drawings I have seen are all simple diagrammatic layouts.
I'm at this moment doing the same on my C Shadow. I'm using split-wrap from vehicle wiring products, which is flexible and accomodates ups and downs. It means I can construct the loom and test it BEFORE putting the sheathing on. It also accomodates leads forgotten despite all the care taken......
All the wiring from the back of the bike (stop/tail/horn/alton/electric start) joins the main sheathed loom at the rear of the UFM via an ignition switch under the battery tray. (The "tributaries" use smaller diameter split-wrap.) My main loom then goes up the drive side of the UFM, kept up out of sight by tie-wraps, and exits from under the tank above the tank mounting bolt whence into the headlamp. Wires are "diverted" from the main loom to the earth screw on the UFM, and to the electric start - an advantage of split-wrap is that everything doesn't have to be planned to within 0.001" in advance.
You can get a pretty good idea of the layout from Richardson, Chapter IX, page 120 where he gives dimensions of the wires and sheathing on the original.
I'll follow your instructions and report back with my degree of success. Sounds straightforward enough!
Problem with living abroad is you're always a long way away from any chance of looking at other people's bikes as reference.
PS. Who supplied your electric starter, and was it "easy" to fit? I may well acquire one.
The electric starter came from Francois Grosset. (I had bought one of his distributors earlier when my mag showed signs of breathing its last. RIP.....) Trevor Southwell machined the inside of the kickstart cover to give the requisite clearance, and fixed the broken cover. Creating the clearance probably isn't a big job anyway.
I'm very please with it. I bought the complete kit (rather than modify my originals). I'm a complete convert: it has NEVER failed. I fitted it in stages as part of an overhaul, but I reckon it could easily be fitted in a morning if one had all the bits to hand. Wiring was a bit of a fiddle since i chose to mount a Lucas ignition (key) switch beneath the battery platform.
Appearance is unaffected. You might wonder why I had a horn button on both ends of the bars, but otherwise you'd be hard pushed to spot it.
The only downside is that one can't pull in the clutch while in gear and move the bike backwards but that is scarcely a show-stopper, just select neutral.