Wheel rebuilding

[vibrac]

This is what I do -but always read the manual
assemble the hollow shaft and the bearings with appropriate shims dont add outer shims or nuts now there should be almost imperceptable back and forward movement taking out the thinest shim (H17 -.004) should remove it -put the shim back now add outer shims to taste and add back plates.
there should be very very slight movment at the rim and dont take any s**t from MOT testers brought up on roller bearing wheels who say its worn

 

[Newbs1]

John, Thanks for the advice sounds like a logical step i will make a couple of spacers and try again.

Cheers for now,
Regards,
Geoff

 

[Tom Gaynor]

Something that came up at our lunch meeting today: contrary to popular opinion, the brake plates should NOT be a tight fit on the axle. If they can float radially, then the shoes will centre on the drum which is exactly what you want. If they are tight on the axle, then the drum has to wear the linings until they make maximum contact. As J Bickerstaffe once remarked, in that case the brakes are no sooner worn in than they start to wear out. I have a Guzzi 250, 8" brake, and it is clear that fit of the (steel) plate on the axles, and the nut on the outside, are designed to allow the plate to centre itself. It works. What is also important is that when the spindle is tightened there is a solid load path between the fork blades so that they don't close in. When I tried Lightning plates, in a vain effort to make what is effectively a 7" single leading shoe brake with a wide lining better, I had to put spacers in BEHIND the plates. Twin brakes do not double braking power, they double fade resistance...but my suspension still worked...

This is what I do -but always read the manual
assemble the hollow shaft and the bearings with appropriate shims dont add outer shims or nuts now there should be almost imperceptable back and forward movement taking out the thinest shim (H17 -.004) should remove it -put the shim back now add outer shims to taste and add back plates.
there should be very very slight movment at the rim and dont take any s**t from MOT testers brought up on roller bearing wheels who say its worn

 

[stumpy lord]

hi,
first refer to the riders hand book for instruction on how to set up your wheel hubs, page37.
Right this is how i do it. place one bearing on the hollow axle with the bearing against the shoulder, use a spacer thick enough to cover the plain part of the hollow axle, then fit the nut and tighten down. place the axle and bearing in the hub. now start to fit shims to the axle so that when you place the other bearing on the axle you have a nice running clearance. having got that far, you then fit annother thick spacer, and then the nut, tighten the nut down. Check the end float , If the bearings are tight you need to add a shim, if to slopy remove some shims. To carry the job out this way, will when you start to fit your back plates show that any problems of binding are due to the shimming of the back plates, and not of the bearings.
please note that when you have completed the job, if you are using new felt seal they will temporaly take up your carefully adjusted end float.
cheers stumpy lord

 

[Newbs1]

Tom, Stumpy Lord,

Again thanks for the advice. I will take a more methodical approach based on the information above. Once cured i will update the thread.
Regards,
Geoff