F: Frame Wheel bearing extraction

Chris.R

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Hi I probably asked this before but: I need to know how to get the bearing cups out of the rear hub since it is only after rebuilding the wheel I find rollers in the caged roller bearing degraded, I have bought new Timken bearings and for what it is worth mine are imperial with a spacer. What is the process of removing the bearing cup from a fully assembled wheel.

The wheels have been re-chromed, painted and assembled can the above be done without damaging the said assembly.

Chris
 

davidd

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I have always believed that the best way to remove bearing races is with a TIG welder. If you can locate someone to do that it will be relatively easy. The welder runs a bead around the inside of the bearing race. Neatness is not important. Often as the hub heats up it will release the bearing. This is due to the fact that the weld bead, as it cools in place will make the diameter of the race smaller. The race will often knock out with light taps from a punch when the bead is done and the hub is still warm. It should also tap out easily when the whole unit is cool.

I often weld in a piece of scrap so I can tap straight down with a steel rod. I do this after welding the bead on the race.
Brearing Removal 1.jpg


Brearing Removal 2.jpg

There is no flame or spatter with TIG.

David
 

Robert Watson

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I have done many like that. works very well. Just pop over with the wheel and I'll tig it for you. Let's see, book a ticket, drive to airport fly, I'll pick you up in about 16 hours :) No just a minute that would be 1:30 am, I'll be there at 7
 

Chris.R

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Thanks Bob for the offer Just cannot afford the added carbon footprint so will have to find someone north Surrey or Kent borders to help out.
 

Black Flash

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You do not necessarily need a tig welder. Take your wheel to a local car garage and ask the guy to run a line of weld round the cup.
done it many times, worked all the time!
 

Robert Watson

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Just on a finished wheel there is a chance of spatter either from mig or stick to hit the paint. Not so with the tig.
 

Chris.R

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Ok you are saying that MIG or arc is an acceptable method I can make a simple hardboard shield to stop the spatter getting on spokes, paint and brake drums.
 

Robert Watson

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any welding will do the job, just with the tig you don't get any little molten bits flying about! Lots of wet cloths covering precious paint will work just fine as well, although don't let me explain to her what all those little holes are in her favourite hand towel set........
 

Black Flash

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Robert,
Sorry I forgot to write to use a mig welder which is usually in any garage. Clean and degrease the cup carefully, better twice with brake cleaner and with a good ground connection there will be no spatter from a mig welder.
but you are certainly right, with a brand new wheel I would never use those horrible sticks. The spit or spatter all the time.
 
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