Vincent Tools

davidd

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Yes. Pat said he bought this from Sid Dickson. Sid had it made in Germany, I believe, when he was travelling around on a Vincent and ran into the problem. He talks about his travels in some early MPH's. The maker was Hunger.

David
 

oexing

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The Hunger company still offers great products for the motor trade. I use most reamers from them for engine and girder fork jobs, valve seats too:

Link to Hunger:
Hunger
 

Cyborg

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Yes. Pat said he bought this from Sid Dickson. Sid had it made in Germany, I believe, when he was travelling around on a Vincent and ran into the problem. He talks about his travels in some early MPH's. The maker was Hunger.

David
I guess I missed that in your post... have to work on my reading comprehension. Could be the welding fumes though.
According to this guy, you can just do it with a $10.50 reamer off Ebay! (Warning... nauseating content)
 

davidd

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I mentioned this tool earlier, but I did not show what it does.
DSCN2858.jpg

Made from strap. I hold it up to the crankcase and the brass nut at the back of the timing cover.
DSCN2852.jpg

Squeeze the handles...
DSCN2853.jpg

...and the timing case pops open. This is very handy if you don't use a gasket or you have trouble loosening the cover. I use a high pipe on the racer, but it works so well that if I had exhaust pipes in the way I would modify the design a bit to make it work with the pipes in the way.

David
 

Magnetoman

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Squeeze the handles... ...and the timing case pops open.
For what it's worth, this is the tool I made to do the same job on a Gold Star.
TimingCover03.jpg

Mark I of the tool is shown in use at the left, with Mark II at the right. The updated version dispenses with the need for a spacer under the "foot," and the addition of a cutout places the lip of the timing cover in line with the axis from the foot to the other end that pivots against the bulge for the oil pump. With rubber against steel and Al against Al the cover comes off without drama and nothing gets scratched. I'm sure I'll make something equivalent for my Vincent's engine. When I get that far...
 

vibrac

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Here is my contribution, I already have the photo so I guess I told the story somewhere in early forum however:
This fits over the G34 Camplate spindle slots and is secured to it by a 1/4" cap screw. A good torque is then accomplished via the hexagon I have better judgment of torque via spanners than a screwdriver etc ,and of course this method is easy when headroom is limited

1548668621413.jpeg
 

Little Honda

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Non-VOC Member
All this talk of piston stops has lead me to look at my tools. I thought some of these and the tools of others might be useful to see:

Piston Stop:
View attachment 13026

This is the end of a slide puller, that is a long stud with a sliding weight. I welded a nut that matched the puller's thread onto some round stock that I drilled and tapped for the cam spindle threads. It make it easy to pull them out or adjust the height of the spindle in place:

View attachment 13027

Take the cam spindle puller off and this is an adapter to pull out the oil pump body. It is usually tough removing these, but they are a firm push fit in, so no tool necessary for installation:
View attachment 13028

David
What heat value does the plug have?
on mine I have filed a flat along the thread, to allow compressed air to escape, when the piston approaches
tdc. This makes it more easy to turn flywheels by small amounts.
 

b'knighted

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VOC Member
I had Rotary Norton’s. To facilitate cover removal the bores of the screw holes were tapped the next size up. I think of them as 1/4 cover screws with 5/16 extractor thread but they were probably metric. The “5/16” screw needed was holding an inlet pipe just above the cover so only an a second Allen key was needed. The cover screws were also fitted with ‘O’ rings which sat under their heads in the counterbores.
 

oexing

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The trick with the extractor thread is the only way to separate a cover that is flush all around it to the crank case like on the 460 Horex in the photo. Most covers have 1/4 screws or 6mm to hold onto the engine. The next suitable size in the through hole in the cover is 5/16 for US Americans, the rest of world will find a M 8 metric tap and screw. You can tap the cover on the bike at opposite sides when the need arises and for very short available thread length in the cover the typical single cut tap will lift the cover as soon as it bottoms at the smaller case thread . Else you will just tap for a healthy length of thread in the cover, push in a piece of 5mm rod, long enough to bottom in the engine case and a extractor screw will push onto that 5 mm rod to lift the case. A grub screw flush in the case will do just fine instead of the rod.
It is easier to do than to describe but you don´t have to design some other means of forcing the cover to break loose.

Vic
IMG00014.JPG
 
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