I'll go through this one slowly and try to be explicit; if you don't follow, please let me know. Firstly, stick the 'bike on its front stands, or jack it up until the front wheel is well clear of the floor. Disconnent the speedometer cable at the bottom end and free off the brake return spring, (there should only be one ) on the right -hand brake arm. Now, unscrew the solid axle and withdraw it. After this, by holding the wheel upwards against the mudguard, you should be able to wiggle out the cable trunnions. This done, you can replace the wheel and the solid axle. Set the eccentric stop pin on the bridge plate halfway in its travel range and re-tighten. Get a strong bit of string and tie the balance beam to the eccentric.Screw both brake adjusters down to within one turn of bottoming. Now, hang the brake trunnions on the cables and starting from the right-hand side, move the brake arms and serrated washers around until the trunnions align with their respective holes with the brake shoes just rubbing and the cables tight. Now if you are a triple-jointed dwarf with five foot long arms or a Jaguar mechanic, you should be able to remove the solid axle , refit the trunnions and return spring and refit the solid axle. The eccentric adjuster and one turn off bottom adjustment should be all you need provided your linings are o.k., your face plates H48 aren't worn, your brake plates don't flex, your handlebar lever ditto and your linings aren't shot. My opinion is that many brake plates, especially on Twins have shoe pivots that aren't parallel and this is an unseen cause of poor brakes. Thoughts from more knowledgeable gents welcome! F5AB/2A/7945 since 1970
