V 3 clutch plates

[stumpy lord]

If you looking for a thin mineral oil, A company called Pennzoil produce a sae oil 5/ 20 grade.
stumpy .

 

[stumpy lord]

hi mallard metals of kings heath Birmingham can supply solid dural rod of the correct dimensions to make alloy clutch push rods.
stumpy

Keith, insufficient lift can be a problem. As things heat up, The cases and the clutch pack expand more than the steel push rod. This expansion creates extra slack at the lever.
With my v2 I have it set so that there is no cable slack when cold. In fact the clutch will slip in fourth if pushed hard, but only for the first five minutes of riding. After about five minutes a little slack shows up and the clutch holds firm.
This slack increases if things get really hot.There is just enough lift for city stop/start riding.

Fitting a dural clutch push rod with hardened ends is a good idea for v2 or v3 cltuches. The dural pushrod expands with the cases so the cable slack stays fairly constant.
Its on my list.

On edit: I see thst the club sells an adjuster Et 27/2ss which is for multiplate clutches. According to the info given, it will provide an extra 10 to 15 thou of lift. This along with the dural pushrod should provide plenty of lift.

Glen

 

[vincenttwin]

Here are the details from Barnett company and of special note is they make special plates of iron if you are going to run them dry.
From Barnett.
We have the friction in two different thicknesses, 3mm and 3.8mm. Also the steels are
available in 1.6mm, 2mm, as well as 2.3mm. Just FYI in case to want to play around
with stack thickness or add more plates.

The frictions are $15.18 each, steels are $6.52 each regardless of thickness, plus
shipping.We accept Visa,Discovery and MasterCard.

call 805-642-9435, M-F, 8am-4pm, PST

NEW NUMBER..........OLD NUMBER.........Description

301-45-10008 K900K 3.8mm friction
301-45-10010 K1100K 3mm friction

401-45-063002 KP-2-16 1.6mm steel
401-45-078002 KP-2-20 2mm steel
401-45-089002 KP-2-23 2.3mm steel

I recognized your email address, knew this was for the Vincent clutch. The above frictions are made with Kevlar. We also make them with a Carbon friction material.
And with a iron-oxide material that we use in dry clutch applications. Just extra info
if it applies.

Mike Taylor

 

[stumpy lord]

hi I dont know about v3 clutches but I do know that suzuki clutches benifit from having the clutch dome converted to an oil bathl. Roger and I removed the larg seal, drilled a hole in the top of the case, and two leveling holes at the bottom of the case, thus allowing a circulation of oil on to the clutch. this helps to stabalise the expansion of the clutch by removing the excesive heat when in heavy stop go trafick. we found that you will still lose a little lift at the handle bar lever but no where near as bad as it used to be, and do not fore get that most modern jap bikes run their clutches in oil bathes. any crap from the clutch linings will eventualy settle out underneath the primary chain tension sliper.
cheers stumpy lord

On my V3 I have tried various oils, "dimpled" steel plates and although it works OK most of the time, I can't get it to work effectively when it gets hot in heavy traffic. Talk about bad noise, last time I heard a similar dramatic noise was when my big ends packed up on my A10! I have fitted it as per instructions with "oil holes" in the case and bearings etc appear to be in tolerance. My observations are the oil in the clutch cover appears to be dirty and the clutch works easier if I clean it annually. I think the problems may be aggravated by the limited oil getting to the clutch. Perhaps it would function better if the clutch was completely open to the primary oil as it would assist cooling and change of oil to the clutch? When the engine gets really hot, does the clutch just runs out of lift? Keith

 

[vincenttwin]

Okay before I take my v3 clutch apart , how long and what diameter Dural rod should I order . from Kings and will just heat treating the ends suffice .

thanks
Peter

 

[stumpy lord]

hi , you will need arround twelve inches of 1/4 dia dural rod sorry i cant be more precise than that, but i do not know if you are using just one rod, or if your rod is split, with a ball bearing in the middle. your suplier should be able to tell you what length to use.
The hardend ends have to be manufactured and fitted to the rods by reducing the dia of the rods so that the overall dia of the rods remains no greater than1/4 of an inch The dural can not be hardend by heat treatment, hence the need for hardend ends.
stumpy lord

Okay before I take my v3 clutch apart , how long and what diameter Dural rod should I order . from Kings and will just heat treating the ends suffice .

thanks
Peter

 

[Monkeypants]

Since the hardened ends take the wear perhaps common 6061 would be fine for the rod itself? Im thinking the ends would be 4340 steel or similar?

Dural is hard to find in Canada, 6061 is at most suppliers.


Glen

 

[stumpy lord]

I used dural because it was something that I had from when I was in the R.A.F. working on jet provosts. 6061 would probebly be O.K. but trevor could probably come up with an answer for that[ as well as what steel to use.
stumpy QUOTE=monkeypants;31762]Since the hardened ends take the wear perhaps common 6061 would be fine for the rod itself? Im thinking the ends would be 4340 steel or similar?

Dural is hard to find in Canada, 6061 is at most suppliers.


Glen[/QUOTE]

 

[clevtrev]

I used dural because it was something that I had from when I was in the R.A.F. working on jet provosts. 6061 would probebly be O.K. but trevor could probably come up with an answer for that[ as well as what steel to use.
stumpy QUOTE=monkeypants;31762]Since the hardened ends take the wear perhaps common 6061 would be fine for the rod itself? Im thinking the ends would be 4340 steel or similar?

Dural is hard to find in Canada, 6061 is at most suppliers.


Glen

Todays equivalent of Duralumin is 2014.