Tyres

[bmetcalf]

The grinder works well on one's footpeg rubbers to look as if they were beveled down with vigorous cornering. Either that or get Peter Volkers' old ones.

 

[peterg]

Howdy Bruce,

Funny you should bring that up. Remember my Shadow in a note here recently where I mentioned I was spraying it with (5) cans of Krylon aerosols for a "seasoned" look, well I did just that to one peg to antique to match the others.

....but alas, it was only to weather the top as all my friends know I'm a duffer when aboard and the outer edges coud only be marred if this machine fell over on its stand at some gathering.

 

[clevtrev]

The grinder works well on one's footpeg rubbers to look as if they were beveled down with vigorous cornering. Either that or get Peter Volkers' old ones.

You would also need the very much shortened peg to go with the rubber. That`s naturally shortened, not artificially.

 

[Comet Rider]

And there's more

You would also need the very much shortened peg to go with the rubber. That`s naturally shortened, not artificially.

Ah yes Trev, but you also need the worn down panniers and boots as well

 

[Tom Gaynor]

3.00 x 20

I put new tyres on and take it easy for the first 10 miles. On a race bike one puts on new tyres, keeps speeds down 20% for a lap, then gives it the hammer. I think it's a potential problem, but not an actual problem.
I like over-the-hill's idea of using a wider front rim which effectively converts a "square tyre (e.g. 90/90) to a low-profile (say 110/80) with a proportionate increase in footprint. This can be done by fitting a Dunlop triangular K485? intended for racing 125's (they're still available) to a manx with a WM3 rim. I have tried it, but reverted to Avons because an unforeseen downside was that I could lean it right on to the edge of the tread, frightening the wits out of me because it felt as though it was going down as the footprint area shrank. I'm sure this would not be a problem on a Speedmaster with a large "wrap-round" and a much less extreme profile. However, I expect I'll just revert to living with the standard 3.00 x 20.....

Howdy Chaps,

Mold release agents? Just take a lightly saturated rag with an astringent like spray Brake Clean and slowly wipe the outer tread perimeter, no manual drying required as it evaporates very quickly.

Have read with interest posts regarding lack of communication imparted by 3.0 x 20 Speedmaster equiped fronts. My mileage of the last decade had been entirely on a touring spec Vin with a (marginally low inflated) 3.50 x 19 which apparently is only marginal better by reason of it's slightly larger foot print. Wanting a vintage experience, both aesthetically and with operational feel, but some element of predictability (safety - especially two up). I opted to go with a setup then that provides slight understeer on turn in, communicative transition at apex and degree of oversteer dictated by rider throttle - all of this conducted at a rate of g's that wouldn't spill your cocktail if seated comfortably in the back of a limo. Thus, front shock set soft on jounce with strong rebound - to get the front end down and planted when trail braking in - running 10wt and a generally stiff rear on 20wt that did doesn't do much to speak of either way. I didn't care about weight transfer particularly for acceleration seeing how that is being done somewhat leisurely. We have lots of sweeping country roads here that lend themselves to settling into a good rhythm, with pleasant elevation changes offering much 3rd-4th gear 50-70mph riding for long periods at a time.

So, stepping up for an even more vintage experience, ie, stock clutch, Miller 6v genie and other period pieces for this new Shadow, just carefully assembled both shocks and filled with recommended oils from publications on the subject and set off with this 3.0 x 20 Speemaster equiped machine. Wow, very spooky. Not helped by the fact that within the 10 years since that first Vin resto I have discovered custom compounded front linings which I have bonded on and then hand radius for much better bite, but to the accompanyment of little/no dive, any braking done while leaning in to a sweeper just results in this machine gently drifting the front - no drama - it just wants to track right off the road in lazy arc. With an undersized 3.0-3.25x19 tube fitted, do not want any shuffling between it and the tire, so, am loath to drop air pressures to find grip as I'm not running bead locks on this one.

Suitably chastened, I'm thinking maybe MrGaynor's recommendation for a race compound front might be the answer (??). Afterall, the race compound RB2 front for /2 BMW's transforms them.