E: Engine Twin oil pump fitting

vibrac

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get some allthread or some round bar put a thread for the end of the pump (5/16)"? get something heavy with a hole in the middle for the bar slide it on the bar put a nut on the far end and you have a slide hammer
if its man enough a couple of slides to the end and out she comes!
 

oexing

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While reconstructing my Argentina B-Raps I had to deal with same problem a few months ago and decided to get a real nice push fit at NO resistance at all for fear of distorting the delicate sleeve. After checking the bore for nicks and dents, you can run down a reamer if you got one, provided it is not blunt at all, and if still not lucky to push the sleeve in to its stop, you could smear some extra fine abrasive paste up the bore and use the brass sleeve itself for lapping it up the bore. I got paste of 5 micron , diamond or the like and screw the sleeve on the end of a threaded rod for manipulating it up the bore. Just see that the paste stays up the bore mostly so you don´t enlarge the bore at the entrance too much. Sure, you get a tiny taper along the bore and sleeve at the top but I do not think it is critical or a negative factor when located in its final position. When up to the stop there is only minimal play in the assembly and wet sumping cannot be a factor after the engine has cooled down and oil got its high viscosity again. So no real need to go for a press fit, too much risk of getting a seizure when knocking the sleeve in and insufficient running clearance for the plunger. Just keep the rear part of the sleeve clean of paste and most of the honing action in front of the sleeve, manipulate the lot in a honing motion with paste and oil, cutting oil is great.
In case you have to remove substantial material in the bore and your blunt reamer is unable to free cut to size you are entitled to use a secret toolmaker´s trick for restoring the reamer to achieve an individual size. You get a piece of carbide, like a lathe tool insert or a rod of carbide and run it along the cutting edge of the reamer under an angle like in my photo below. That way you create a tiny burr along the flute and so will be cutting the bore to your liking. Be cautious with forming these burrs, you can set the reamer to oversize two or three thou with this trick. You can check with your finger nail at the reamer edge for "size" .

Vic
P1050789   Paint.jpg
 

SteveO

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VOC Member
Thanks for the replies.
OK, I need to do some thinking out loud now. I have the pump sleeve in now and in correct alignment, I don't (really don't!) want to have to take it out again. If the housing is distorted, reaming it out is going to take it oversize somewhere, so there is a possibility of leaks or loss of oil pressure? I'm not quite clear what Vincent is suggesting, is the honing to the sleeve or the housing, or is it both? It's a bit late for the housing in my case and even if I were to pull the sleeve out again and do it, it may distort again when it goes back in leaving me where I started. There appears to be some damage to the housing around where the outer main is driven in, I wonder if this is the source of the distortion? It would make sense if the housing is out of true that the plunger won't go in, but if I ream the inside of the sleeve I would have to be dead accurate or oil will be able to get past the plunger affecting the oil pressure which I don't want! Is this correct? Or does it matter with the nose of the plunger, as this doesn't appear to transfer any oil. It's nice to know that warming the cases won't affect the Loctite as I don't want to have to go through all that again.

"Than some very fine abrasive powder oil and thats it.
Be sure to machine down the middle part on the sleeve whom is open.
As it can bend"" the sleeve when seated.

Than do the pump itsself with fine "Time saver lapping compound. "

Vincent, can you please advise on "abrasive powder oil", I'm not familiar with the term. Is this carborundum oil such as used to be used for running in? When you say machine the middle part do you mean concentrate on this section as it distorts when fitted? Is "time saver lapping compound" what I would know as valve grinding paste?
 

tatty500

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Non-VOC Member
Twenty years ago when putting my B back together, after 30-ish years in bits, I was worried that the big race of the new big main bearing had not gone properly home.

To be certain I tapped it a bit with a hammer and soft drift.

It was only later when I was looking at that cross section of the engine at about page 18 of the riders handbook that I spotted how thin the crank case is between the bearing outer and the pump bore. I think this was why my original pump on being refitted had a tight spot.....Silly me.

However, when it came to getting the pump sleeve angularly in the right place I found that a smooth ended rod of the correct diameter for the scavenge/return holes in the sleeve could be inserted through the 1/4BSP return banjo hole and used to rotate the sleeve to the correct final position....assuming its not a mile off to start with.

PS don't forget to check that the OP36 screw is not too long if you are fitting a new one.

Best of luck
Tatty
 

Bill Thomas

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I am trying to remember, There is a small bit of crankcase that is very thin and can break away, Right next to the pump sleeve / Main bearing, Not a problem, As long as you see it and remove it.
 

Vincent Brake

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VOC Member
The abrasive powder oil, is bad endlish for:

Time saver lapping compound.
I use it where diamond or SiC can bed in thus creating rapid wear.
Trick with this stuff: it goes blunt rather quick, loosing its sharpness.

I buy it in the Trump country.
And use them with Acro expanding mandrels.
Really was an eye-opening item.
Thought i heard it from DavidD.
 

Vincent Brake

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VOC Member
On the brass part i do machine the open part , (where the worm engages with pump) an 0.1mm down in daimeter. No need to lay stiff to the casing there, causing possible distortion.
Hence better fit for the pump itself.

But as you said
I DON'T TAKE IT OUT.
To late in my reply, sorry
 

SteveO

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VOC Member
Right, I've got the sleeve out again, reading the comments above that seems to be a no-brainer. Bill, you are quite right, the heat makes no difference, it drove out just the same cold. I now find the plunger still won't go in, so does this mean I've scrapped £300 of pump? SWMBO will not be impressed! I've enclosed some photos. Bill, you are right again about bit of crankcase breaking away (not by me, a PO!). One of the photos shows how far the plunger goes in without jamming - about halfway, which would support the notion that the sleeve has bent in the middle. Doh!
 

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