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E: Engine Twin oil pump fitting


Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I just think of the money I've saved over the past 56 years, with six rebuilds (big ends) and a quick six-day strip to replace mains last year because the steel cage holding the timing side inner rollers disintegrated, had to wait a couple of days to get bronze caged rollers NOS. I removed my oil p/p sleeve with my slide hammer and it hit the G50 plate dinging the flange on the end, lost patience with it trying to dress it up so got another pair of miss-matched sleeve & plunger that worked freely and fitted them. Then had my Grosset starter fitted motoring on down to daughter Camita in Poitiers in February but came home by car with her indoors, it was sumped by Easter (normal I thought) rode home but had sumped just over a week later (not good) so fitted a cock to the oil tank outlet and made a bell crank to the petrol cock just as I've done to Old Harry, Camita's "A" Rap.
 

stu spalding

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Something to check when fitting OP32, if the hole for OP36 is not dead right, tightening OP33 can make the sleeve bind on OP36 causing the sleeve to deform enough bind on the plunger. Cheers, Stu.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Exactly, that is why I´d fit the sleeve with no force at all and push fit, ready to be orientated in its final position to align with said activating screw.

Vic
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Just another thought, I am full of them :) , Sorry.
If you think the sleeve will now go in without heating the cases,
It won't do any harm to heat the cases just local, Which should make it more free ?,
And with the long stud up the middle, Used for pulling it out, Put two nuts locked together on the outside end,
Which you can put a spanner on to turn the sleeve to line up the oil hole and the hole for OP36.
Start off with the holes a bit to the left, Then turn the stud clockwise ?.
Let the cases cool down before undoing the stud ?
Cheers Bill.
 

stumpy lord

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
there was a few weeks ago a drawing here in the M.P.H. of a tool that enabled an owner to position an oil pump sleeve without having to use a piece of steel bar to turn the sleeve for hole alignment , and thus remove the risk of damaging the pump sleeve.
I cant be sure, but I think it was designed by Dave hill, but not sure. Hopefully somebody else will remember the article, and be able to guide you to it.
stumpy lord
For this tool see M.P.H.602 on page 9 also in a book published in 2018 by the club titled IN TO THE MILLENNUM , which is a continuation of FORTY YEARS ON
. I don't know if this is still available, but if so, well worth buying.

One way of salvaging your damaged pump sleeve is to acquire a piece of steel bar that has been turned and polished to just pass by the dent in the pump sleeve. with the bar held tightly side ways in the vice.
Place the sleeve over the rod , and with the dent in the sleeve held firmly against the rod, using a light hammer, tap lightly around the out side of the indentation . THIs will raise the dent out of the sleeve, but you may have to linnish the internal bore slightly.
stumpy lord
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Bill, I do not think you will have luck heating the case when the sleeve fit is too tight and hope for turning it to align with the screw hole. The brass sleeve will heat up in a second from the warm case, expand and end of story. I definitely favour the strategy to lap the sleeve into the case with 5 micron paste to get a nice super small push fit. Heat growth of case and sleeve will be within half a thou extra gap when hot and returned to 5 micron when cold. I recommended 5 micron type of paste because that will be your clearance at the most that you get between sleeve and case. 5 micron is the size of the diamond cristals so when honing/lapping the sleeve slowly into the case and keep the rearmost outside part of the sleeve clean of paste you end up with that 5 micron clearance - a fifth of a thou in your money - along the sleeve to its final position. This is no factor at all for the running engine on the road concerning oil "pressure" and no factor for wet sumping when cold.
All other tight fits risk to end in foul words at best . . . .

Vic
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Steve said he thought his was not too tight now, He has had it out 4 times !,
I would not put anything in there, Paste etc,
I can only say what I would do, I have done a few, In 50 plus years, But as Vibrac says, It's not something we do
often. Cheers Bill.
 

SteveO

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The 1" reamer arrived two days ago. I followed the advice here and took a bit of the edge off the reamer using well worn wet & dry (virtually smooth). Wound in very easily and used a spanner on the end to take a very light cut (almost nothing came out). Have rubbed down the sleeve OD with wet & dry to get push fit (took two days!). Lapped in the pump plunger with metal polish so it's free. Am about to assemble.
 

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