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C: Clutch Twin clutch . centralizing plunger.

john998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
In a drawing of the twin clutch posted on this forum it appears that the centralizing plungers C11/1 are shown in contact with the both C14 pins. Is this correct?
In my experience there is always some clearance that allows C13 a few degrees of rotation either way before any contact.
John Stainton.
 

stu spalding

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Greg, this is the jig I use to cut shoes. It was based around shoes that Maughans re bushed with oilite bushes, I queried the wisdom of using oilite in the clutch, worrying about oil on the linings, but Steve said it was not a problem. The jig is located under the milling head using a bit of 16mm round bar in the collet chuck, located in the hardened collar on the jig. I never looked at other options as this method seems to work fine. Cheers, Stu.
 

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greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Thanks Stu, The shoes are always a bit awkward.....You can spend time repairing the pivot bore, plus the plunger bores as well given these wear pretty badly......... Sometimes I think it would be easier to buy new ones so long as they are made ok......... I like the original clutch........Nice to get them working well.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Greg, this is the jig I use to cut shoes. It was based around shoes that Maughans re bushed with oilite bushes, I queried the wisdom of using oilite in the clutch, worrying about oil on the linings, but Steve said it was not a problem. The jig is located under the milling head using a bit of 16mm round bar in the collet chuck, located in the hardened collar on the jig. I never looked at other options as this method seems to work fine. Cheers, Stu.
Something else for me to check. The shoes that I’m using have been rebushed in the past. They look to be well done, but suppose I should make sure the bushings aren’t cockeyed. If they are off a very small amount, then turning the linings might compensate for that? Not ideal so hopefully they are done properly.

Greg, I compressed the G36/1 spring in a vise until it was almost coil bound. It makes quite a difference. Polished the end of the G35 and notches on the G32/2, so hope it shifts smoothly. Wonder why they just chose a random diameter for the G35... I installed a new G38 bushing and it was too snug on the G35. Figured I’d just grab a reamer, but no reamer made in that size? Didn’t have an adjustable reamer small enough so ended up using that Time Saver lapping compound.
If you ever have any customers who think the labor charges are too high... have them call me.
 

john998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hello, have now done a few miles with the longer clutch centralizing plungers. There is a definite improvement, it no longer is as snatchy as it was.
The springs are as Stuart Spaulding mod and the plungers are made in stainless steel as it was to hand and will work harden.
The length is determined by the amount of wear in the linings and drum.
John.
 

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