Tuning Front Brakes?

clevtrev

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Trev,

I was wondered about the shoes "bending" before Trev mentioned it, because when stationary and applying the front brake the brake arms appear to move a bit after the brake is fully applied. This is when the spongness is felt at the handlebar. This was on brakes where the lining was turned to fit the drum when originally fitted. Now I cannot remember if the extra brake arm movement happened when the brakes were new 10000 miles ago, but they do now.

Anybody know if the linings are wearing unevenly or if the shoes are just too weak or is something else going on?

Have you found a cure to your bending shoes Trev?

Cheers
Simon.

Refer to my article MPH 499. Still waiting for the experts to reply.
 

Monkeypants

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
It is worth noting that there are 3 different offsets (centre pivot to centre of nipple distance) available for the brake (and clutch lever) These are 7/8", 1" and 1-1/8". The 1-1/8" provides the least leverage and greatest movement- ideal for the clutch in order to get sufficient lift. The 7/8' offset provides the most leverage and least amount of movement. I have this type lever for my front brake.

The brake is a standard Vincent setup but with the lightning back plates and finned drums. Linings are the old Green carcenogenic type.

The brake works almost too well. Loaded two up with gear it will lock the front wheel quite easily on wet roads. A firm pull will also cause it to lock up on dry roads. The back brakes will also lock the wheel fully loaded.

The brakes held nicely on a 25% downhill grade on a very narrow twisty B road in the Penines. This was also with full gear and two up. The sign at the top of the grade said 25%, which I thought was impossible. 8% is a steep mountain road in British Columbia, 25% is a goat trail.
Once on the grade, I no longer questioned the sign, it was the steepest grade I have ever gone down with a road bike!
Along with the engine hold back in low gear, I had enough braking power all the way to the bottom, perhaps a mile or so, with enough reserve braking to make a full stop at the stop sign and T junction at the very base of the hill.

My Norton Disc brakes are not even close in performance to the Vincent brakes. The Norton brakes require more effort and fade to almost nothing after coming down from 70 MPH to 20MPH a couple of times in succession.
 

piggywig

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Tuning Front Brakes

Stuart,
Thanks for posting the result of all the brake work, seems a high standard of care and attention to all related parts has brought a just reward. Perhaps when all is nicely bedded and front tyre rubber is being left on the tarmac you can do the regulation test beloved of the 50's testers, of stopping below 30 ft from 30 M.P.H. (Assuming a large truck is not following)! The result can become The Vincent Standard, as "good brakes" can mean all things to all people!
I have been using a more radical solution as per my previous posting, but may be well worth another try at a standard setup with all the new found knowledge. Already there must numerous owners with better brakes due to this thread having been a magnet for a gathering of the collective wisdom of the 'Vincent family'.Thanks all.
Col.
 
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