F: Frame Tool tray position and fixing

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
If my old eyes don't deceive, you have return springs on both front brake arms. Usually fitted on r.h.s. only, otherwise function of balance beam stop is negated. Maximum leverage of arms is just as arm and cable form a right angle. Keep your rear stand bolts and nuts (F69 and F27) fairly tight on their Thackeray washers, you don't want to set up any vibration in that tart-tray rearward of the seat, particularly if you have alloy guards. A pretty bike, enjoy it.
 

b'knighted

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VOC Member
No balance beam is fitted. The brake lever has a built in whiffle tree (possibly Royal Enfield) and the bridge plate is flared to carry cable abutments with adjusters outboard of the blades. Front brake arms are long but lever travel is short and feels extremely firm.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Not a criticism but hopefully a helpful comment; your rear carrier is likely to cause trouble. It is un-sprung and bounces up and down with the rear wheel etc. Anything light is likely to be ejected, anything heavy will cause something to fracture. If you to not want to use the rather ugly 'Forth Bridge' type of support used by many then a carrier can be cantilevered over supports placed inside the top of the two friction damper arms and the upwards reaction taken by a shallow 'U' shaped bracket placed just behind your new tool tray.
 

ray vinmad

VOC Drawings Manager
VOC Member
The rack will not only go up & down, it will also rotate towards the seat and it looks to me as though it would bury itself into the back of the seat on a full bump. As it's on a centre stand, the suspension is fully extended in the pictures.
If a pillion passenger had their hands in the way, that could easily end with broken bones.
Put the bike on the rear stand, grab the lifting handle in one hand & the centre of the handlebars in the other & pull together. That will indicate the action.
Put a jack under the engine, take off the rear springs & lower the bike via the jack to full `bump' on the damper. That will show how close it will get.
Ray
 

doctired

Active Forum User
VOC Member
Not a criticism but hopefully a helpful comment; your rear carrier is likely to cause trouble. It is un-sprung and bounces up and down with the rear wheel etc. Anything light is likely to be ejected, anything heavy will cause something to fracture. If you to not want to use the rather ugly 'Forth Bridge' type of support used by many then a carrier can be cantilevered over supports placed inside the top of the two friction damper arms and the upwards reaction taken by a shallow 'U' shaped bracket placed just behind your new tool tray.
Thanks. I looked at the rear rack it arrived with, agreed and removed it. Looks so much better and easier to polish. Cheers
 

davidd

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VOC Member
I have built quick detachable racks to be bolted onto the back of the seat. This was many years ago, but I think I welded some round tubes to the bottom side of the seat frame at the back. They ended at the seat and were not very noticable. I welded in two weldable tube ends. These could hold a rack or be closed off with a SS bolt.

I did the same thing when building Egli frames. The original Eglis did not have a loop frame on the back where the seat is. There were two straight tubes instead. Egli flattened the end of the tube and drilled two holes in the flat to attach a mudguard stay. I welded on some threaded tube ends so a mudguard bracket and/or a rack could be bolted on.

DSCN0672.JPG


They are available in many sizes. Often called "weldable threaded tube ends" or "tubing threaded inserts".



David
 

stu spalding

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Getting back to the start of this thread, if a luggage rack is to be used in future it is no bad thing to extend the inner bits of angle iron to pick up on the mounting bracket ends of the outer frame while the seat is in kit form, in fact I've often wondered why this wasn't done originally. Cheers, Stu.
 
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