Tips for Removal of Front Cyl Exhaust Cam Spindle

Rob H

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Anyone have any good tips for removal of the front cylinder exhaust cam spindle, the one on the bike has been locktited in and is well stuck.

Initial thoughts are to try and use some heat to the local area. I have a rattle gun but nothing to fit the slotted head.
 

Comet Rider

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Hi Rob,
Definitely heat is your friend. Loctite will start going soft at about 180 Deg C.
Use a hot air gun rather than an open flame.

HTH
Neil
 

davidd

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That is a bit of an unusual problem considering they often fall out.

Loctite wants you to heat it to 250C . I think that is too hot for the health of the crank case metal and I would hope it could be destroyed at a lower temp like Neil mentions. I have heard that melting beeswax into the joint will destroy the Loctite. Beeswax is usually easy to find at a candle store. I have not tried it, but my machinist swears by it.

I use a slide hammer to remove spindles and it raises the question of whether or not you are getting the force you need to break it loose. The green is harder to remove and the black Loctite is considered permanent.

If you can get the Loctite to melt you should be able to get the spindle out. The remaining traces of Loctite can usually be removed with MEK. Take precautions, though.

David
 

greg brillus

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Buy yourself an inexpensive impact screwdriver kit and use the largest bit, modify the bit if necessary to make it a really good fit in the slot, heat the area and use the impact driver, it should break free with a couple of good hits with a good sized hammer, cheers..............Greg.
 

Vincent Brake

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if all that fails, get to the aera with a very small gas/oxigen torch only on the steel part, due to the quick applied heat it will destroy the locktite. but not the alu as the heat is easily absorbd by it.
take it slowly though. dont overheat, and have a 2nd person ready with that impact driver.
luck.
 

Rob H

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Thanks guys, heat and impact driver were my initial thoughts also, just wanted to double check to see if I was missing something
cheers
 

litnman

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Had the same problem last week on a small aluminum engine. With the welding machine, I used a 1/4" rod as the electrode and held it hard against the screw head, then switched on the power until the electrode started turning blue. This put enough heat into the screw to soften the loctite and it came out easy.
 

davidd

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Had I figured out that you were talking about a follower spindle and not a cam spindle, I would have suggested John's solution. I find Tig welding something easy to grab onto a stud or spindle is the best way to not only loosen it, but to get it out.

1/4" rod onto a broken bolt that seized in the triple clamp. The bottom of the bolt was sticking out two threads.

Broken Stud 1.jpg

I pumped enough heat into it to cause the rod to "waist", but with that amount of heat in the bolt it just turned out.
Broken Stud 2.jpg


Broken Stud 3.jpg


David
 

Rob H

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No access to a welder but based on the principle used a soldering torch which gives a fine flame to heat the head and then a slotted impact bit with a breaker bar. Worked OK
 

vibrac

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I had 1 of the long (12") studs across the bottom of a R75 that holds the engine in (bike in damp shed for 20 years) can't heat directly as the sump is below it tried to heat it but the bulk of aluminium, the long length and frame in way it was impossible. I built a dam of plasticine around both 'entrances' and its spacers, filled them with a mixture of acetone and light oil, left it a day, built another for the second day. Third day put a nut on each end, hit it hard on one end, it moved a fraction in, hit the other end same result, back and forth and out she came. You can't rush rust.
 
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