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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Timing Gear
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<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 22691" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>Kevin,</p><p> </p><p>It is a fairly complicated exercise to to set up a timing chest so that it runs correctly because if you want the steady plate to be flat you really cannot follow the instructions in the literature, you have to start setting the chest up and then set all the spindles to the same height of the only spindle that does not move, which is the big idler spindle. Additionally, if you have to line up the cams and followers to run properly, you will need lots of shims that are not called for in the literature and you may then find that you need to shim the big idler to mesh properly with the cam wheel after you have shimmed the cam.</p><p> </p><p>My understanding of the literature is that you set the spindles to the height of the ET162, which is the spacer for the steady plate. The spindle shoulders shoud be 0.025" below the height of ET162 when it is in place as most of the spindles have an ET98/1 sitting on the shoulder of the spindle and the thickness of this is 0.025". Theoretically, this means that the shoulder height of the spindles is 0.42" above the joint face. </p><p> </p><p>Having said all that, it seems to me you should pull of the steady plate and set everything down on a piece of cardboard where everthing is marked for its position. I would be curious about the thickness of the two ET173's, one on the big idler and one on the small idler. These are rather thick and measure 0.070" as I remember. Check all the shim and washer thicknesses and make certain that they make sense to you (run a straight edge to various spindles and measure to the joint face). If what you see looks good except for the breather spindle (you should wiggle the spindles to check for looseness) then I would consider moving in the breather spindle to the correct height.</p><p> </p><p>I think most of us have changed spindles in running bikes before, but I am hoping someone else chimes in before I explain the procedure. It involves several evacuation drills for the family, an increase in your insurance coverage and you must sign a waiver! Please also chime in if you see errors in my logic or numbers as I am doing it from memory.</p><p> </p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 22691, member: 1177"] Kevin, It is a fairly complicated exercise to to set up a timing chest so that it runs correctly because if you want the steady plate to be flat you really cannot follow the instructions in the literature, you have to start setting the chest up and then set all the spindles to the same height of the only spindle that does not move, which is the big idler spindle. Additionally, if you have to line up the cams and followers to run properly, you will need lots of shims that are not called for in the literature and you may then find that you need to shim the big idler to mesh properly with the cam wheel after you have shimmed the cam. My understanding of the literature is that you set the spindles to the height of the ET162, which is the spacer for the steady plate. The spindle shoulders shoud be 0.025" below the height of ET162 when it is in place as most of the spindles have an ET98/1 sitting on the shoulder of the spindle and the thickness of this is 0.025". Theoretically, this means that the shoulder height of the spindles is 0.42" above the joint face. Having said all that, it seems to me you should pull of the steady plate and set everything down on a piece of cardboard where everthing is marked for its position. I would be curious about the thickness of the two ET173's, one on the big idler and one on the small idler. These are rather thick and measure 0.070" as I remember. Check all the shim and washer thicknesses and make certain that they make sense to you (run a straight edge to various spindles and measure to the joint face). If what you see looks good except for the breather spindle (you should wiggle the spindles to check for looseness) then I would consider moving in the breather spindle to the correct height. I think most of us have changed spindles in running bikes before, but I am hoping someone else chimes in before I explain the procedure. It involves several evacuation drills for the family, an increase in your insurance coverage and you must sign a waiver! Please also chime in if you see errors in my logic or numbers as I am doing it from memory. David [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Timing Gear
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