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Throttle cable lengths

Paul Williams

Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi All
can anyone please help with a problem i have ?
I am looking for the original factory lengths of the 1x2 throttle cables on a 1951 Rapide. This bike has the original twist grip and 276 carbs. The original splitter box will also be used.

the cables i have at the moment have been butchered and made up from a variety of odds and sods that they are not a good place to start from.
Many thanks
Paul
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I would come at it from the other way
1. what is the correct position for the standard throttle cables ie where were they clamped and where did they run?
2 make the cables to fit your bike
alternative: just place an order with the spares Co
 

Gene Nehring

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi All
can anyone please help with a problem i have ?
I am looking for the original factory lengths of the 1x2 throttle cables on a 1951 Rapide. This bike has the original twist grip and 276 carbs. The original splitter box will also be used.

the cables i have at the moment have been butchered and made up from a variety of odds and sods that they are not a good place to start from.
Many thanks
Paul

Hi Paul,

I have a set of original cables at home. I will see if I can find lengths. I know that Robert Watson also has a very original bike that he is working on right now (bike has only been in one family). He might be able to help also.

Best,

Eugene.
 

Paul Williams

Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Hi All
can anyone please help with a problem i have ?
I am looking for the original factory lengths of the 1x2 throttle cables on a 1951 Rapide. This bike has the original twist grip and 276 carbs. The original splitter box will also be used.

the cables i have at the moment have been butchered and made up from a variety of odds and sods that they are not a good place to start from.
Many thanks
Paul
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have done a quick search here as I am sure it has been discussed in detail I found one about the comet cable routings but did not succeed. I also seem to remember that some of the original factory photos leave cables in mid air as tanks and other items were Photoshop ed in 60 years before Photoshop
I am sure someone here with more minutiae knowledge than me will regale us all soon ... Please
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Not wanting to put you off going for originality here but the original layout had the cylindrical junction box strapped to the front right hand side of the UFM. This meant that the cable run to the front carb went under the oil tank and had a less than optimal bend in it as it lead into the carb. With modern lined cable outers it should be possible to get a nice cable movement but years ago it was never easy.
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Two choices here, original or workable. Original cables were a heavy cloth covered striped arrangement that could stick open. Modern, teflon coated cables can be routed
more efficiently. Twin pull cables can be tuned more easily. Take your choice and go with it. Is that three choices?
 

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
Personally, I'm in favour of the original arrangement. Yes I have owned Twins, and rode a Guzzi with twin carbs. and a junction box for twenty years. You can get the original carburettors spot-on with a couple of 3/8" drill bits stuck under the slides.. Because of the junction box you do not get differential movement between the inner and outer over two arcs 0f cable. You can get nifty 90 degree metal adaptor tubes off Japanese cables to make the cable entry to the mixing chamber top tidier, teflon cables are good stuff. The factory specifically put the rear cable adjuster where it couldn't be mooked abhart wiv. easily. This should tell us somethink. Use the right little flat-headed screw (FT184) on the junction box clip.
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Original Junction box split cab set up is also nice and neat, but does take some considerable set up time, even with the Voc spares cable kit you still have to finish each cable yourself (different handle bars 276 v's 289's ) it all makes a difference, I prefer to make my own and much easier now after all these years I finally know what I'm doing..............:D.............Front carb cable runs not an issue so long as you don't squash the cables as the tank is lowered into place.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The problem I always found was with petrol tanks with the smaller Rapide carb cutaway. Trying to get the cable to stay between the oil tank and the inner face of the tunnel in the petrol tank, and then bend round to enter the top of the carb is time consuming and tricky. Of course, it could just be me.:eek:
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I should say why I passed on route of cables old or new was because I long ago opted for a twin pull twist grip.
Somewhere in the long grass of Brands Hatch paddock is what I later called a 'Super impractic' single pull twist grip whose wonderful solution to the twistgrip coil round the drum was an elegant chain which I thought was the bees knees till it snapped when I was in a very good position vis a vis a early Norton Commando. It does seem to me sometimes that you gain knowledge in direct proportion to your loss of youth-full ability
 

roy the mechanic

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The 90 degree bend is ,I find, easily achieved with a piece of 3/16 copper brake tube. Another piece of 1/4 tube soldered to the cable end gives the cable ferrule some where comfy to sit. Made one yesterday for the comdom, took around an hour all up. Used nylon lined bicycle brake cable. A meter of inner and outer plus 6 ferrules cost just short of a tenner. And it's really neat. "all done in the best possible taste"
 

Steve G

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
The 90 degree bend is ,I find, easily achieved with a piece of 3/16 copper brake tube. Another piece of 1/4 tube soldered to the cable end gives the cable ferrule some where comfy to sit. Made one yesterday for the comdom, took around an hour all up. Used nylon lined bicycle brake cable. A meter of inner and outer plus 6 ferrules cost just short of a tenner. And it's really neat. "all done in the best possible taste"
Can you name a source for the materials? And maybe a photo of your finely crafted creation? Never made a cable in my life but would love to learn how.
 

Nulli Secundus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I bought one of those tools, expensive but the best money spent. Best for making clutch and brake cables where the ends are critical, so quick and easy. You could make your own but the tool is hardened steel and very tough. Used it many times now, a definite if you make cables often, best advantage is you end up with cables of the right length, which adds up to a very neat job.
 

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Website User
Non-VOC Member
The problem I always found was with petrol tanks with the smaller Rapide carb cutaway. Trying to get the cable to stay between the oil tank and the inner face of the tunnel in the petrol tank, and then bend round to enter the top of the carb is time consuming and tricky. Of course, it could just be me.:eek:
You can get your grandmother's 36" bootlace and contrive a loop to hold the cable next the oil tank such that a sharp tug will free the loop when everything is working; or you can cheat and use very long cable ties around the oil tank and leave them in position permanently. All our Concours judges are too old to bend down and look under the tank anyway. Ask Bananaman how to do the knot. Assemble the cable in the carburettor first, with the adjuster half open, then work toward the throttle. Keep the inner cable steady with a blob of Blu-tak or similar.
 

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