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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
TDC Timing Valve
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 9347" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>Hello Pete4000, Consider that your bike is now about 55 to 60 years old and who knows what kind of people have worked on the engine in the past. As Len says there is no guarantee that any of the marks are where they should be and as you have rebuilt the engine it should still be out of the frame. Therefore you now have a good chance to do the job properly by using a dial gauge on top of the valve stems. My advice is to use the timing as set up by the original designers of the engine and do not pay attention to 'experts' who will tell you how advancing or retarding the timing will affect the performance. Can any one of those 'experts' show you results from a series of brake test? Often people do not realise that Vincent timing is taken at five thou lift, 125 microns if you have to use a metric dial gauge. My advice is measure the whole of the lift curve for both cams on both cylinders. If you do not have the patience to do that then at least measure those eight opening and closing points. Only once you have those details can you set to and work out where the best compromise timing should be to get all the opening and closing points as near as possible to the original timing. It might mean moving the half time pinion around on it key-way, five key-ways and 24 teeth give you a vernier arrangement to within 3º. If all else fails then you might have to press out one cam and put it back into its pinion slightly turned from where it was. All this might seem tedious but once you have done it you will be able to use the bike, totally satisfied that the timing is correct and if the bike does not go as it should then all you have to get correct is ignition timing and fuel mixture strength. Bon Chance.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 9347, member: 456"] Hello Pete4000, Consider that your bike is now about 55 to 60 years old and who knows what kind of people have worked on the engine in the past. As Len says there is no guarantee that any of the marks are where they should be and as you have rebuilt the engine it should still be out of the frame. Therefore you now have a good chance to do the job properly by using a dial gauge on top of the valve stems. My advice is to use the timing as set up by the original designers of the engine and do not pay attention to 'experts' who will tell you how advancing or retarding the timing will affect the performance. Can any one of those 'experts' show you results from a series of brake test? Often people do not realise that Vincent timing is taken at five thou lift, 125 microns if you have to use a metric dial gauge. My advice is measure the whole of the lift curve for both cams on both cylinders. If you do not have the patience to do that then at least measure those eight opening and closing points. Only once you have those details can you set to and work out where the best compromise timing should be to get all the opening and closing points as near as possible to the original timing. It might mean moving the half time pinion around on it key-way, five key-ways and 24 teeth give you a vernier arrangement to within 3º. If all else fails then you might have to press out one cam and put it back into its pinion slightly turned from where it was. All this might seem tedious but once you have done it you will be able to use the bike, totally satisfied that the timing is correct and if the bike does not go as it should then all you have to get correct is ignition timing and fuel mixture strength. Bon Chance. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
TDC Timing Valve
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