taking dents out of Birmabrights

nkt267

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VOC Member
On another note, I am rather new to this VOC forum but why do some users -and you!- of it use incognito names, soooooo old school, we're grown up now
One reason a lot of us use a psuedonym is that if you came to my town with my full name you could find my house and steal my bikes.
Coming back to your problem about welding mudguards. I used to work with an ex-aircraft fitter and if they had to weld an unknown alloy they would take trimmings from the edge of a panel to repair the same panel,a guarantee that the metals would match. John
 
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van Ginneke

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Hello John, Aha, so that would mean that you in turn are coming to my town and round up the old bikes? Oh dear!
But, as seen very recently, if they wanne find you they will find you, the moment you switch on your cellphone the Predator takes off!

Good tip about using a bit from the guard itself as welding material! Thanks!

regards, Vincent.
 

clevtrev

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VOC Member
O.K. clevertrevor, let me refrase the question: can someone tell me if it is possible to weld birmabright and if so, How this is done without distorting/even larger holes/discoloring(?)/using backing material etc.
In short; are there any special pitfalls that I should warn 'my' welder about.

On another note, I am rather new to this VOC forum but why do some users -and you!- of it use incognito names, soooooo old school, we're grown up now!

best regards, Vincent
Birmabright = 5251 That`s a spec. that we in UK use. The 5 at the front of the number tells us that the major alloying element is magnesium. So with that in mind I use a rod numbered NG6. That`s another UK spec. So now go to your welder and tell him that, if he`s a welder he will know what to do. I`ve filled holes 40mm in diameter using only the 1.6mm rod.

And I would say, my name is Trev. Hardly incognito.
 

roy the mechanic

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VOC Member
had my welder repair the rear the rear birmabright on the rap a couple of months ago, no fuss or drama. he actually said "it welded really well" but then he is a "coded" welder. on the subject of non-deplumes for our overseas cousins-roy the mechanic is actually my trading name-so there!
 

vince998

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VOC Member
On another note, I am rather new to this VOC forum but why do some users -and you!- of it use incognito names, soooooo old school, we're grown up now!

I tried using my proper name: Vincent.
No hope on this forum :D
 

vince998

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VOC Member
Thanks, B'knighted & David, I will follow your advices and use something I know I got,...patience!
Some time ago I bought (out of curiosity) a 'special' panel beating hammer with a surface that looks like having 'teeth' like a rough file but in a circle. The hammer head is bonded to the rest of the hammer by rubber and when you hit the metal it makes a very small 'twisting' move.
Because of this twisting & the teeth the metal does not stretch -I was told- and it works on metal but I dont trust it on alloy as you have to hit rather hard in order to get this twisting action. On sheet metal I did get some nasty dents out but the teeth make marks on it.

This i believe is called a shrinking hammer.
the idea being the dent is pulled up flat whilst retaining the original surface area of the dent (the material has afterall, stretched). The only drawback is the ridges have to be filled or soldered/tinned flat and then the panel repainted.
I´ve used mine for tenderising my cutletts, and it work very well except it doesn´t "shrink" anymore :D
 
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van Ginneke

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Non-VOC Member
Hello Trev, 998, Roy, etc ! Thanks for all the advices. I've located a good welder who works at a classic car shop, dont know if he's coded but I've seen some impressive work done by him. Now see if I can get him to do the guards......

Thanks again for all the help, regards, Vincent
 
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