E: Engine Static Timing

Chris Launders

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VOC Member
Saw an interesting article in the VMCC magazine about something which I thought could be of use.

Instead of using a timing disc and pointer just get one of these small magnetic digital level devices (inclinometer) simply attach it to say the ESA, find TDC and reset the device to zero, they are normally accurate to 0.1 degree.

They are not super cheap but possibly like me you have one already but never thought of using it this way.

Chris.
 

vibrac

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I got one last spring to do the Douglas T35 as there was no room for a disc pointer and the front mudguard
Its magnetic and you just press zero when you have TDC in the time honoured way
I sketched out an angle iron platform with a 1/4 inch steel rod for the vincent but not made it yet
 
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BigEd

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VOC Forum Moderator
Saw an interesting article in the VMCC magazine about something which I thought could be of use.

Instead of using a timing disc and pointer just get one of these small magnetic digital level devices (inclinometer) simply attach it to say the ESA, find TDC and reset the device to zero, they are normally accurate to 0.1 degree.

They are not super cheap but possibly like me you have one already but never thought of using it this way.

Chris.
Many people will already have a smartphone. I have an App on mine called Protractor - with Bubble Level.
I downloaded it from Google Play. Do a search, there are other similar apps. It displays a clear semi-circular protractor scale that moves as you rotate. It can be fitted easily to a suitable bracket using rubber bands or tie wraps. If you have easy access to the engine shock absorber you could probably be able to fix it directly with bands.

Protractor Bubble Level.png

Video link

P.S. I have said this before. Old inner tubes can be easily cut to make stout rubber bands. I always carry one or two in my toolbox or pocket. Amazing how often they come in handy. (e.g. A good way to hold the kick start lever up if your return spring goes. You can join a few together to get a suitable length. Cut at 90º for small ones and at an angle for a larger diameter.
 
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roy the mechanic

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This can also be achieved with a ruler and a crapulator. Measure the diameter of the round object, multiply by 3.142 , divide by 360, will give degrees per mm. Paint the desired marks, they will be there ready for next time.
 

oexing

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VOC Member
You need two clocks - for equal lift. Then dremel a corresponding line on cam wheel plus engine case in this cam position. No need for any other timing marks on all gears, you cannot trust them. So then you just leave the camshaft at equal lift - no gears fitted . Turn the crankshaft to 4 degrees before TDC , using the degree disc. Now you can fit all gears and find the best position on half time gear for final positions. Next time you don´t need clocks for equal lift, you got the lines already - unless you got new cams with gear pressed on.
This is typical on most bikes: You find timing mark on camshaft gear corresponding to lines or case edges etc. and set crank to TDC - or 4 degrees before - for final assembly . No clocks on valves required.

Vic

P1070932.JPG
 

powella

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Non-VOC Member
Hi
I see you have a piston dead stop in the bottom right hand of your picture. Does it have a " Soft end " to stop it making a crater in the top of the piston - plastic maybe ?
 

craig

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VOC Member
No, simply steel allthread with rounded end running thru a stripped/tapped sparkplug.
I find TDC with the valve adjuster screws out, then pull dead stop and set valves.
No banging the piston.
 
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