I am at a point where I can spend some time trying to start up the 1952 Vincent I bought at an auction this past Summer. Does anyone have or know of a checklist of things I need to do for a bike that may or may not have sat for a while? For example, I am sure that I would want to empty all fluids, etc., but I am hoping for a step by step (or youtube video) that would say something like "Drain the oil and put <blank> oil in". I assume that I need AV Gas or something other than the gas station of course, so something to that extent...
Misc: Everything Else Start Up Checklist?
- Thread starter chucktaggart
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It is a 1952 Vincent Rapide C. It came pretty clean looking, so I have hopes that it won't need much. As you can see in the pic, there is a little oil leak, but the oil looks clean as well. I was told that if it does not leak then it means it is out of oil or something is wrong with it (haha). Of course, it likely needs some gaskets I would think.
There are several Vincent enthusiasts in the Dallas area, contact the Section Organizer, Bev Bowen at lonestar499@voc.uk.com, and join the Club.
http://www.voc.uk.com/
You'll have to register to access this, but these books are very valuable: https://vocspares.mamutweb.com/Shop/List/Manuals/67/1
Are you aware of http://www.thevincentparts.com/ in Massachusetts?
http://www.voc.uk.com/
You'll have to register to access this, but these books are very valuable: https://vocspares.mamutweb.com/Shop/List/Manuals/67/1
Are you aware of http://www.thevincentparts.com/ in Massachusetts?
Apart from checking the engine, gearbox and primary oil levels, it is a good idea to prime the engine with oil if it has not ran for some time. It may have wet sumped a little, that is some or even all of the oil tank contents may have bled into the crankcase. Bellow the left side front of the engine, just forward of the foot on the left prop stand on your picture is a drain plug with a hex about 15 mm across. Remove this and let the contents drain into an icecream container or similar. The engine oil total volume is near 3.5 liters........A good oil can will come in handy, but we will let you get past first base, and continue from there.
Good advice Greg.
It's also worth removing a tappet cap from each head and dispensing some oil to help lube the cams and followers before starting.
When the oil filter is replaced I also fill the filter housing from the timing cover bolt then prime the system by removing the timing cover oil restrictor and pumping some oil in.
Some might consider this bit of an overkill but we all have our different ways. ......
It's also worth removing a tappet cap from each head and dispensing some oil to help lube the cams and followers before starting.
When the oil filter is replaced I also fill the filter housing from the timing cover bolt then prime the system by removing the timing cover oil restrictor and pumping some oil in.
Some might consider this bit of an overkill but we all have our different ways. ......
Why don't you ring up one of the Texas Vincent lads. They are quite a good bunch. I am in Florida, but you would be welcome here for a start on the rollers and lots of free advice. Bev Bowen in Plano would be a good person to call. He might even convince you to join up!
David
David
One cautious plan of attack would be to try starting it 'as is' but not without some preparation. Full oil flush and confirm circulation; Fresh fuel, clean filters; confirmed ignition. Here is my method.
Remove the seat then the fuel tank. Once off, drain the fuel tank, then bit of fresh fuel and a good slosh about to remove any crap from the inside. You may consider removing the fuel taps as they most likely will have a gauze filter on the bit that is inside the tank - and it will need to be cleaned out. Clean or replace any inline fuel filters.
I would also remove the fuel lines from the bottom of the carbs so draining the float bowls - it would be good precaution to also remove and flush out the main jets. Flush some fresh fuel thru the fuel lines. Do not refit the fuel tank just yet.
Next drain the oil from the sump and also from the oil tank. Also drain the oil filter chamber .
At that point, with the line that connects to the inlet of the oil pump disconnected I, would put fresh clean oil into the oil tank till such time a clean oils is flowing out of the pipe that's at the oil pump inlet. Now refit the connection to the base of the oil pump and top up the oil tank so that the oil just reached the cross bar you can see when you look down into the filler neck. Now with a fresh oil filter element in place and all oil lines buttoned but the sump plug out, up squirt oil into the quill till it starts to appear at the sump drain hole. Put the sump drain plug back into place.
Now squirt a good half cup full of fresh oil down each of the 4 pushrod tubes. Also remove the lock dome nut on the top of the timing cover and the jet below it and put a few good squirts of oil into there - take it slow here else you may get oil everywhere. Now put those bits back together.
Remove the spark plugs and with the bike on your rollers - I suggest in 4 gear (which is direct drive 1:1) get the motor turning over for a couple of minutes. While doing this have the cap OFF the oil tank so you can see the oil being returned. It may take a minute or 2 to start being returned.
If there is no oil being returned then there is an issue with the oil system that MUST be fixed before you attempt to start the motor.
I expect the returning oil will be very dirty. You can keep this up till the oil appears to be coming cleaner when it will be time for another full drain of the oil tank and a new lot of fresh oil into it.
Now you know oil is fresh and circulates. (BTW after your first 100 miles of running do a complete oil change and fit a fresh oil filter)
At some point here you will need to remove and clean the magneto points, setting the points gap to 0.012". Set the spark plug gaps to 0.018". I suggest new spark plugs .
Now you need to check/set the ignition timing - What's needed for easy starting is 4 BTDC fully retarded and for running 32 to 34 BTDC fully advanced.
At any point around this time check the 'tappets' - actually they need to be snug with zero clearance with the motor cold but you should be able to rotate the push rods by hand.
Stick a spark plug into each of the leads (not in the motor) and again on the rollers turn the motor over looking for a spark in each plug.
If all is well fit the spark plugs into the heads and get some fresh fuel into the carbs - use a shop fuel supply or refit the fuel tank.
And now the moment of truth - will it start!
Next steps involve getting it road ready - brakes, tyres, electrics, suspension and so it goes.
Remove the seat then the fuel tank. Once off, drain the fuel tank, then bit of fresh fuel and a good slosh about to remove any crap from the inside. You may consider removing the fuel taps as they most likely will have a gauze filter on the bit that is inside the tank - and it will need to be cleaned out. Clean or replace any inline fuel filters.
I would also remove the fuel lines from the bottom of the carbs so draining the float bowls - it would be good precaution to also remove and flush out the main jets. Flush some fresh fuel thru the fuel lines. Do not refit the fuel tank just yet.
Next drain the oil from the sump and also from the oil tank. Also drain the oil filter chamber .
At that point, with the line that connects to the inlet of the oil pump disconnected I, would put fresh clean oil into the oil tank till such time a clean oils is flowing out of the pipe that's at the oil pump inlet. Now refit the connection to the base of the oil pump and top up the oil tank so that the oil just reached the cross bar you can see when you look down into the filler neck. Now with a fresh oil filter element in place and all oil lines buttoned but the sump plug out, up squirt oil into the quill till it starts to appear at the sump drain hole. Put the sump drain plug back into place.
Now squirt a good half cup full of fresh oil down each of the 4 pushrod tubes. Also remove the lock dome nut on the top of the timing cover and the jet below it and put a few good squirts of oil into there - take it slow here else you may get oil everywhere. Now put those bits back together.
Remove the spark plugs and with the bike on your rollers - I suggest in 4 gear (which is direct drive 1:1) get the motor turning over for a couple of minutes. While doing this have the cap OFF the oil tank so you can see the oil being returned. It may take a minute or 2 to start being returned.
If there is no oil being returned then there is an issue with the oil system that MUST be fixed before you attempt to start the motor.
I expect the returning oil will be very dirty. You can keep this up till the oil appears to be coming cleaner when it will be time for another full drain of the oil tank and a new lot of fresh oil into it.
Now you know oil is fresh and circulates. (BTW after your first 100 miles of running do a complete oil change and fit a fresh oil filter)
At some point here you will need to remove and clean the magneto points, setting the points gap to 0.012". Set the spark plug gaps to 0.018". I suggest new spark plugs .
Now you need to check/set the ignition timing - What's needed for easy starting is 4 BTDC fully retarded and for running 32 to 34 BTDC fully advanced.
At any point around this time check the 'tappets' - actually they need to be snug with zero clearance with the motor cold but you should be able to rotate the push rods by hand.
Stick a spark plug into each of the leads (not in the motor) and again on the rollers turn the motor over looking for a spark in each plug.
If all is well fit the spark plugs into the heads and get some fresh fuel into the carbs - use a shop fuel supply or refit the fuel tank.
And now the moment of truth - will it start!
Next steps involve getting it road ready - brakes, tyres, electrics, suspension and so it goes.
Never mind rollers, what you need for oiling up before a start up is this piece of kit!
