What's the best 'stuff' to put on stainless threads to stop them binding up?
Stainless Steel Threads
- Thread starter mynewrapide
- Start date
"Three-in One" Copper grease from Halfords. Works like a charm.
S/S threads
I use copperslip most of the time but on threads that need to stay tight I use loctite, this also prevents "picking up".
I use copperslip most of the time but on threads that need to stay tight I use loctite, this also prevents "picking up".
S/S Threads.
Hello,
In the offshore industry the S/S pipe fittings made by Swagelok can be lubricated by a product supplied by the same company called Silver goop.
It is silver based, working on the same lines as silver plating on big end cages.
Another product is PBC grease, this is the only grease that stops alloy threads corroding in the salt atmosphere. It is good on S/S too. John.
Hello,
In the offshore industry the S/S pipe fittings made by Swagelok can be lubricated by a product supplied by the same company called Silver goop.
It is silver based, working on the same lines as silver plating on big end cages.
Another product is PBC grease, this is the only grease that stops alloy threads corroding in the salt atmosphere. It is good on S/S too. John.
Initially the threads need to be machined or formed for the correct tolerance.
For the home user, what can be done to help is to reduce the crest of the male thread, and increase the internal diameter of the nut. All seizing is caused by the friction generated where the depth of the thread fouls.
For the home user, what can be done to help is to reduce the crest of the male thread, and increase the internal diameter of the nut. All seizing is caused by the friction generated where the depth of the thread fouls.
What I am saying, is reduce the outer diameter of the screw, and increase the hole in the nut. Truncate the thread form, leaving the flanks as they are, providing they are right in the first place.If i get you right you are saying to run a die down the thread and a tap through the nut?Plain English please for the non engineers out here
Further to that, yes all threads on your machine should be assembled with a barrier of sorts. I suggest wet or dry molycote. Even parts together need a barrier. Think hinge brackets on rear mudguards, a smear of lanolin or chromate solution, will stop the galvanic reaction. Spoke nipples in alloy rims, is another place to protect.
hold onto your hats boys we are going high tech in the ship yard i work at we have found a great product its called thread smart by logix its got every thing its a lube and anti vibration good to 2100 old degrees its safe on rubber and all metals its a non conductor too you can gall treads and this stuff just slides right through the gall its hard to belive but check out the web site at www. logix.mrop.com
i forgot to add we use it on titainum piping thats got a safe working load of 3200 psi , so its a great sealant too instead of teflon tape that does tend to ball up in the fittings and block the 1 micron ports we are blowing water through