The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Spokes Aint Spokes - or are they?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="dagriise@online.no" data-source="post: 43610" data-attributes="member: 437"><p>My two cents on this one... (having laced wheels since i was 13 years old... ) Generally there are quite some variables to look at when you asses a wheel/spoke/ rim set up. Regarding spokes one should always buy good quality spokes, with rolled/not cut threads.(usually this can be seen by the threads being finer, and rised a little.) As I live in a, mildly speaking, wet part off the world (Bergen Norway) the stainless items, both for rims and spokes has been a great thing, though it may be worth thinking twice if you have a really -and i mean really, heavy duty set up. As an example when building my Egli rear wheel, i had to have the spokes specially made by CWC, to get a thigh fit through the flanges of the rear hub. As someone mentioned the head angle is important, <strong>BUT one should also look at the length and thickness of the actual curved bit, from the bend to the head.</strong> I have seen lots of spokes with to long and thin sections through the flange, causing failure, and loosening spokes due this section being to long, witch leads to the full run of the spoke bending and flexing. An other absolute NO NO, <strong>is the spoke/nipple coming out of the rim dimple, at the wrong angle...</strong> This will most likely lead to a clean break just where it enters the nipple. Talking about cracks, this is mostly down to either the sheet steel being to thin or brittle. I suppose a torque wrench is a good thing if you want to be sure, but i wouldnt bee to absolute to whats the correct torque, as both the alloy, and profile of the rim means a lot to how much tension you put on the spokes. The basic rule of getting the wheel right is to tighten it evenly. First tighten the spokes down to the point where you have, lets say, a few threads left showing out of the nipple, and then go on giving them a turn or two, all the way around. Always use a good spoke wrench, and a very light lubricant on the threads. WD 40 or somthing that will go away. (Stainless nipples on stainless spokes has there own anti mar, lube to keep the nipple rotating) This wil most likely give you a well set up wheel, and be aware if the squares on the nipple start "going" you are to tight! When buying spokes, i always recommend people to send a sample of the old ones, AND insist that nearly correct isn't correct! </p><p></p><p>Again just my two cents..</p><p></p><p>Regards Dag</p><p></p><p>Norway.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dagriise@online.no, post: 43610, member: 437"] My two cents on this one... (having laced wheels since i was 13 years old... ) Generally there are quite some variables to look at when you asses a wheel/spoke/ rim set up. Regarding spokes one should always buy good quality spokes, with rolled/not cut threads.(usually this can be seen by the threads being finer, and rised a little.) As I live in a, mildly speaking, wet part off the world (Bergen Norway) the stainless items, both for rims and spokes has been a great thing, though it may be worth thinking twice if you have a really -and i mean really, heavy duty set up. As an example when building my Egli rear wheel, i had to have the spokes specially made by CWC, to get a thigh fit through the flanges of the rear hub. As someone mentioned the head angle is important, [B]BUT one should also look at the length and thickness of the actual curved bit, from the bend to the head.[/B] I have seen lots of spokes with to long and thin sections through the flange, causing failure, and loosening spokes due this section being to long, witch leads to the full run of the spoke bending and flexing. An other absolute NO NO, [B]is the spoke/nipple coming out of the rim dimple, at the wrong angle...[/B] This will most likely lead to a clean break just where it enters the nipple. Talking about cracks, this is mostly down to either the sheet steel being to thin or brittle. I suppose a torque wrench is a good thing if you want to be sure, but i wouldnt bee to absolute to whats the correct torque, as both the alloy, and profile of the rim means a lot to how much tension you put on the spokes. The basic rule of getting the wheel right is to tighten it evenly. First tighten the spokes down to the point where you have, lets say, a few threads left showing out of the nipple, and then go on giving them a turn or two, all the way around. Always use a good spoke wrench, and a very light lubricant on the threads. WD 40 or somthing that will go away. (Stainless nipples on stainless spokes has there own anti mar, lube to keep the nipple rotating) This wil most likely give you a well set up wheel, and be aware if the squares on the nipple start "going" you are to tight! When buying spokes, i always recommend people to send a sample of the old ones, AND insist that nearly correct isn't correct! Again just my two cents.. Regards Dag Norway. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
The Series 'A' Rapide was known as the '********' Nightmare?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Spokes Aint Spokes - or are they?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top