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Speedo Drive and oil leak...Still at it...

Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Well I took the Shadow out for dinner tonight and somewhere along the way the grease fitting cover on the speedo wheel drive popped off and the speedo drive cable sheered...Oh well...

To add insult to injury there is still entirely to much oil leaking out from under the dynamo despite draining the primary before the ride...

So, back to the beginning...

Does any one have a wheel speedo drive they want to part with that still has the grease nipple intact or just the grease nipple cover...I still have the gears so they are not needed but what ever you have I would be interested in....Let's talk...

Are there any ideas out there for stemming the tide of oil leaving from behind the dynamo...

The flange FT164 is pressed in and sealed with gasket sealant between the case and the flange. The defector PD28 is also installed. Currently there is no sealing material between the case and the dynamo...But I do have some...I did not use it for fear of pumping oil into the dynamo...

Thanks in advance...

Eric
 

BigEd

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
VOC Forum Website Moderator
Dear Eric,
My "understanding of the way the correctly fitted PD28 deflector and the ET164 oil shield works is that it keeps any splashed oil in the primary case but allows pressure to vent to atmosphere. If you are getting oil coming from the dynamo area is there too much oil in the primary case and/or is the primary case being over pressurized. I have an ET24/6 inspection cap in the primary case filler hole. This allows a breather tube to be fitted. Perhaps you could remove your ET24/1 inspection cap and fit something temporary such as a plastic cap/bung with a vent hole to see if pressure was the problem.
 

stumpy lord

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hi eric,
an easy way to solve your speedo metre drive gear box problem is to manufacture an alloy disc with a grease nipple in the centre and fit it to your old body using a modern adhesive or stake it in as the old one probably was.
cheers stumpy lord.
 

Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Dear Eric,
My "understanding of the way the correctly fitted PD28 deflector and the ET164 oil shield works is that it keeps any splashed oil in the primary case but allows pressure to vent to atmosphere. If you are getting oil coming from the dynamo area is there too much oil in the primary case and/or is the primary case being over pressurized. I have an ET24/6 inspection cap in the primary case filler hole. This allows a breather tube to be fitted. Perhaps you could remove your ET24/1 inspection cap and fit something temporary such as a plastic cap/bung with a vent hole to see if pressure was the problem.

Thanks Eddy,

I am sure I have a bit of pressure in there as the bike is still running in so blow by is killing me with oil leaks..

The primary was drained before the ride to the level of the drain hole on the center stand..as was the sump, just for good measure..

Thanks for the input...

Eric
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
If the cable sheared and the end of the speedo gearbox was driven out then the cable seized at the top. Possible cause is the cable is running too tight a curve into the speedo. This could be because the speedo bracket is at the wrong angle. I will send you a PM with more details.
 

mercurycrest

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
I am sure I have a bit of pressure in there as the bike is still running in so blow by is killing me with oil leaks.[/QUOTE said:
Eric;
With those 60 year old one piece oil rings, your bike may never run in. Those rings were at best "dicey" when new, why not at least put some more modern three piece oil rings in? I've a hunch your oiling/blow by problems would become much less of a nuisance.
Cheers, John
 

Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
If the cable sheared and the end of the speedo gearbox was driven out then the cable seized at the top. Possible cause is the cable is running too tight a curve into the speedo. This could be because the speedo bracket is at the wrong angle. I will send you a PM with more details.
Thanks Alyn,

I do indeed have the same issue.. took me a few days to figure it out. My bracket is the original one and it does indeed sit at the wrong angle on the fork link and causes the cable to compress or bend at to severe of an angle. To fix this I put some half washers under the back of the bracket to tilt the whole thing forward when the two bolts are tightened up....The latest failure came about due to the end of the cable that goes into the speedo's angle drive was to long and when tightened up it bound and caused the cable failure..

Thanks for the help..
Eric
 

Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Eric;
With those 60 year old one piece oil rings, your bike may never run in. Those rings were at best "dicey" when new, why not at least put some more modern three piece oil rings in? I've a hunch your oiling/blow by problems would become much less of a nuisance.
Cheers, John

Thanks John,

Eric;
With those 60 year old one piece oil rings, your bike may never run in. Those rings were at best "dicey" when new, why not at least put some more modern three piece oil rings in? I've a hunch your oiling/blow by problems would become much less of a nuisance.
Cheers, John

Thanks John,

Ahhh that is a mighty fine idea and I would do it now BUT.....

If I pull the heads I would have to have them rebuilt. Why, well they are also 60 years old, and seals and springs and seats are often no match in quality for modern materials and machining.
If I am having the heads rebuilt I would also pull the jugs and have them re honed and checked for concentricity and any inclusions.
If I am going to do that that I may as well completely re ring the pistons with modern rings...
If I am going to do go though all that trouble I may as well just get some Higher compression pistons to punch it up a bit....
See how this goes...lol
But the above plan may just go in effect next winter..For now I just want to ride the beast..:)

Spring is IN THE AIR!!..

Thanks,
Eric
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Thanks John,


If I pull the heads I would have to have them rebuilt. Why, well they are also 60 years old, and seals and springs and seats are often no match in quality for modern materials and machining.
If I am having the heads rebuilt I would also pull the jugs and have them re honed and checked for concentricity and any inclusions.


If it will make you feel better, the valve stems don't have seals to renew and you might want to get new cylinder liners machined to have optimum contact with slightly bored out muffs, while you have the motor apart.
 

Ducdude

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
If it will make you feel better, the valve stems don't have seals to renew and you might want to get new cylinder liners machined to have optimum contact with slightly bored out muffs, while you have the motor apart.


Thanks Bruce ! It does make me feel better.. One less bit to renew!

I can understand new cylinder liners perfictly machined for the best seal..

But why bore out the muffs?

Cheers,
Eric
 
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