The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Some words about screwing
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="riptragle1953" data-source="post: 42361" data-attributes="member: 2328"><p>Of course I used that title to get your attention.</p><p>How many of you fellows buggered the slot in a case screw and cussed yourself out? Raise your hands: mine's up!</p><p>Part of the problem, if not all of it is we do not treat the flat headed screwdriver as a precision instrument which is certainly is.</p><p>You want a screwdriver to fit the screw exactly. Just nearly as wide as the slot... almost the same width as the screw, a dead flat bottom with sharp non-rounded</p><p>edges where the slot is addressed.</p><p>A hollow ground screwdriver is best because there is no taper and the sides of the hollow-ground screwdriver address the complete side of the screw.giving maximum traction.</p><p>As a good set of Swiss or German hollow ground precision screw-drivers can easily run $800 or more.... I believe I'll pass and do it myself.</p><p>You need good steel.... and hardware stuff just doesn't cut it. But oddly enough an antique wooden handled one on eBay for ten bucks does....... they didn't believe in cheap steel</p><p>back in those days. And you are going to be shaping and sharpening the tip rather like dealing with a dull knife.</p><p>So, just for fun, build yourself a case-screw and noting but case screw screwdriver.</p><p>Getting the width right is easy with a really sharp file. And then you thin the sides parallel with a stone inspecting the tip of the blade carefully to check if you are keeping the big flats </p><p>parallel There are inexpensive tools with wheels that hold the screwdriver at the right angle as you remove metal from the flats.</p><p>The last step is to flatten the bottom which doesn't take much.</p><p> Do not be tempted to use an electric grinder as the generated heat would ruin the temper of the blade!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="riptragle1953, post: 42361, member: 2328"] Of course I used that title to get your attention. How many of you fellows buggered the slot in a case screw and cussed yourself out? Raise your hands: mine's up! Part of the problem, if not all of it is we do not treat the flat headed screwdriver as a precision instrument which is certainly is. You want a screwdriver to fit the screw exactly. Just nearly as wide as the slot... almost the same width as the screw, a dead flat bottom with sharp non-rounded edges where the slot is addressed. A hollow ground screwdriver is best because there is no taper and the sides of the hollow-ground screwdriver address the complete side of the screw.giving maximum traction. As a good set of Swiss or German hollow ground precision screw-drivers can easily run $800 or more.... I believe I'll pass and do it myself. You need good steel.... and hardware stuff just doesn't cut it. But oddly enough an antique wooden handled one on eBay for ten bucks does....... they didn't believe in cheap steel back in those days. And you are going to be shaping and sharpening the tip rather like dealing with a dull knife. So, just for fun, build yourself a case-screw and noting but case screw screwdriver. Getting the width right is easy with a really sharp file. And then you thin the sides parallel with a stone inspecting the tip of the blade carefully to check if you are keeping the big flats parallel There are inexpensive tools with wheels that hold the screwdriver at the right angle as you remove metal from the flats. The last step is to flatten the bottom which doesn't take much. Do not be tempted to use an electric grinder as the generated heat would ruin the temper of the blade! [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
The Series 'A' Rapide was known as the '********' Nightmare?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Some words about screwing
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top