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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Sold state AVC
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<blockquote data-quote="peterg" data-source="post: 24265" data-attributes="member: 446"><p>Howdy sir,</p><p> </p><p>Pictured below is a 6V neg ground PODtronics fitted to my D6, (click <a href="http://www.patwilliamsracing.com/vincent/vincentelectrical.htm" target="_blank">here</a> and scan down to <em>Electronic Regulator</em> for explanation) it is as straightforward a conversion as performed with an E3L. If you haven't already, probably a good idea to verify you have a simple single field coil (I have a spare D6 that has 2 pairs of field coil wires). If so, conventional electronic regulators have the following - this using POD's wiring colors:</p><p> </p><p>output wire to ammeter (red)</p><p>ground wire to generator body/chassis (black)</p><p>armature wire (yellow)</p><p>field coil wire (green)</p><p> </p><p>At the end of the day you are looking to have one end of your field coil joined to the armature brush which in turn exits the generator to the yellow. The other field coild wire connected to the green wire. To ensure your polarity is correct and the generator turning clockwise when viewed from the drive end, good idea to bench test. On a negative earth system attach field coil wire paired with armature wire to battery positive and ground wire from genie case and other end of field coil to battery negative. It should motor about 100rpm without any notchiness (indicates open segments on your commutator)</p><p> </p><p>Now equiped with accurate voltage regulation you can take advantage of modern battery technology in the form of fitting at AGM. Specs for that at my site link above. Good luck.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p><img src="http://www.patwilliamsracing.com/vincent/vincentpodreg.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peterg, post: 24265, member: 446"] Howdy sir, Pictured below is a 6V neg ground PODtronics fitted to my D6, (click [URL="http://www.patwilliamsracing.com/vincent/vincentelectrical.htm"]here[/URL] and scan down to [I]Electronic Regulator[/I] for explanation) it is as straightforward a conversion as performed with an E3L. If you haven't already, probably a good idea to verify you have a simple single field coil (I have a spare D6 that has 2 pairs of field coil wires). If so, conventional electronic regulators have the following - this using POD's wiring colors: output wire to ammeter (red) ground wire to generator body/chassis (black) armature wire (yellow) field coil wire (green) At the end of the day you are looking to have one end of your field coil joined to the armature brush which in turn exits the generator to the yellow. The other field coild wire connected to the green wire. To ensure your polarity is correct and the generator turning clockwise when viewed from the drive end, good idea to bench test. On a negative earth system attach field coil wire paired with armature wire to battery positive and ground wire from genie case and other end of field coil to battery negative. It should motor about 100rpm without any notchiness (indicates open segments on your commutator) Now equiped with accurate voltage regulation you can take advantage of modern battery technology in the form of fitting at AGM. Specs for that at my site link above. Good luck. [IMG]http://www.patwilliamsracing.com/vincent/vincentpodreg.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Sold state AVC
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