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Sid here . Topic . Clutch tips both the original and multiplate .

Big Sid

The Vincent lift mechanism suffers from short lifting travel and poor strength in the right side arm G91 . Too mush spring pressure and this bends , distorts reducing travel . Only redesign will correct this weakness , so one must work around it . And this affects outer plate lift off in any clutch used .
First one must increase travel of the pushrod focusing on the handlebar lever and the inner tip of G94 . The hb lever s abutting tips are ground back evenly nearing an eighth inch to increase its swing , and the sharp end of G 94 is likewise carefully ground back on its tip to provide greater travel of the lever G 91 . Be careful not to remove too much ruining it . Then the clutch cable is readjusted to take advantage Of the greater travel these two changes offer . And then you must readjust the cover adjustor to suit the cable travel and still allow a wee bit of inner arm slack before contact with the pushrod . Be sure to use plenty of HMP grease on the inner moving surfaces and that the bottom of the inner arm slides freely .
Now you have maximum rod travel possible . The Works method of checking for clean clutch release is to select fourth gear , lift the clutch and spin the rear wheel . If all is well it should spin very easily , almost as if in neutral .
With a multiplate all of that applies equally . We use Videans latest V 3 unit in our Vincati , a lovely piece of gear . However it suffers from too much spring pressure and needs only every other cup and spring , ie. three , not six . Iff this proves too soft then pop in a washer to increase those remaining applied pressure . Neal also offers slightly heavier springs if needed , still using only three .
This change gives a easy lift without stressing the inner arm G 91 , giving a sweet action and max liftoff .
We run it slightly wet to eliminate wear but reduce drag by going to synth . ATF IN THE PRIMARY , and admitting it to the clutch chamber with a single one quarter inch drilled hole sited behind the clutch exactly at the normal primary fluid level . Before assembly of the clutch soak its friction plates overnite in the same ATF , draining well before proceeding the following day .
Adjust the center throw off closely but careful to leave a quarter inch of lever travel at the bar before any lift is felt . There you are , go enjoy ! It will improve as the plate surfaces smooth off giving even cleaner release .
You should do what is possible to lessen transfer of motor oil into the primary case as this will dilute gradually the new fluid .
With the ORIGINAL Vincent clutch . A few reminders will give improved function and freeing off .
The centralizing plungers should compress nicely with a firm thumb squeeze , both of them , not come up solid before 3/4 s of their travel . They must extend out and firmly press on their pins when at rest , both of them . There must be about 25 thou clearance around the inner drum surface and the lining segments to allow for drum wobble , this always there at idle with clutch lifted .
The ends of all segments must be champhered back , no sharp leading edges , both ends to give smooth engagement . No oil in the assembly as it will be flung out into the drum spoiling grip .
All the earlier adjustment details still apply . These all seem simple but must be as described . Good luck . Sid .

Deleted member 1085

Yet to hear of a multi plate clutch which does not have to be adjusted whilst in use i.e. cold to hot. Running multi plate clutches with access only to limited oil in a "drilled" clutch housing, can result in contaminated oil which needs to be changed very frequently, say every 1000 miles. Yet to find a oil which works well and I have tried a few.

Big Sid

Vincent's have covered a zillion miles on the original primary drive. I drag raced for 3 years with a triplex chain , never had one break . Wear rates are really low , adjustment req . very rarely , the entire drive line is solid and trouble free , and very smooth running . it's silent and snatch free . Where am I wrong ?
I see no reason to make the change . Sid .


Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
I belive the double sided belt is not only trouble free but sorts that abysmal dynamo drive speak to Bob Newby
We raced 3 seasons on the 1275 Egli with conventional one sided belt never looked worn but renewed it at £50 a shot just in case
and of course changing it is quick and clean and his clutch (I have 2 on the racing singles) is light and well engineered (use the Spares company multiplate clutch modification that fits the standard twin clutch operating arm)
Still got a chain on the Alphabet Road twin with a home built multiplate suzuki clutch but no dynamo connection as been using it on track days but a double sided belt is on my list in next re-build I could ballast a boat with the triplex chains in my scrap bin

Big Sid

Sid here again . Personally I love the look of the original primary cover and how it flows into the beauty of the motor . I look at it and once again hear PEI saying that the ESA bulge was a woman's breast in it's curve and form . How could one toss away such elemental beauty , so much a part of the motors " shaped from Natures own beauty " look . Nope , afraid not , not til they offer a belt cover as nicely shaped as to not spoil things .


Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
Much clutch adjustment can be avoided by building the push rod from hardened tool steel.... two sections with polished ends with two well lubricated 1/4''x 3/8" roller-bearigs in the middle. Using a thick high pressure grease
just at the bearings does act as a seal ....... the rest of the rod assembly should be lubed with a light viscosity grease.
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