Series D Seats

John Cone

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
P1000273.jpgP1000272.jpgP1000279.jpg

My prince had an original latch at the rear end, which I sure you can still buy in good hardware shops. But i modified mine by using an old cooker door latch, which consisted of a peg mounted on the seat pan which went through a mating hole in the rear cowl and locked into a small pair of sprung rollers. This stops the seat from slewing side to side. I have just measured the underside of my seat pan and it's 21inches.
 
Last edited:

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Great information! I wonder what the part number and description for the enclosed latch might be?

David
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hi, Deroberson and I have been exchanging info as we rebuild our open D's. When I was trying to work out how to secure the rear of the seat, I'm sure I found reference to the ball catches for enclosed D's mentioned by others in whitikapedia or somewhere related but I'm blowed if I can find it now. Anyway, you don't need a part no for these, you can find them in B&Q and the likes or if you search on line. I was considering using them on my open D but didn't because I didn't want to drill the frame. When I got my bike, the rear of the seat was retained by two slotted angles bolted to the underside of the seat with slotted tongues engaged with bolts tapped into the the heads of the bolts which hold the toolbox on one side and the oil tank on the other ( if you see what I mean). Effective but ugly. I have a friend who has an open D shadow which has steel clips which engage with the seat rails but as mentioned by others they make a mess of the enamel but more importantly are quite sloppy when side loads are applied to the seat. I came up with my own seat clips made up from rigid pvc conduit and although I haven't done many miles since recommisioning the bike, they are very positive and unobstrusive. Obviously not for the purists. I will post some pics in the gallery. I did look at Terry clips ( plastic coated) but could not find any which allowed the seat to sit down on the seat rails so all of the loads would have been carried by a single screw in each clip and there was still the problem of slop both up and down and side ways.
 
Last edited:

macvette

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hi
Posted photos in misc 2010 series D series D seats. Forgot to say that the sizes of conduit used were 20 mm to clip over the seat rails and 25 mm attached to the seat to clip over the 20mm. Ignore the fact that the 20mm diam has hole drilled in it and the fact that the 25 mm is white, these photos were taken when I was " prototyping"
 

Tony Cording

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Hi all, delighted to have been recognised by both Phil and Bruce as visitors to their garages, and yes Phil, I do remember well - fun times. hHowever, we must press on to matters of import to the D Vincent community. When ET43 retired, I believe he passed on all fibreglass moulds to Peter Gerrish, who should be able to solve all our seat problems. I need a seat base for myself, Phil needs one for Barr H., and I am sure there are others internationally who would like to avail themselves of all the various D fibreglass pieces. So, Peter are you out there mate? If so, drop us a forum line, and orders will flourish.

And in closing, I am hopeful that my Ronald McD avatar will have been replaced by a picture of the prettiest twin in the West.

Take care

Tony Cording
 

Don Morris

Active Forum User
VOC Member
The attached, I hope, photograph taken tonight is of a seat pan that I bought from T Maughan in Feb 1974.

The thought was that I would fit it to my C twin, but all I did was to make the standard seat fully sprung.

I don't know whether it is an open or closed D seat pan, or are they the same? Can anyone tell me please.

I make it to be roughly 20-1/2 inches long. If anyone is interested in it I think that after some 37 years I can make up my mind to part with it.

D SEAT PAN.jpg
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Don,

I think we have established that the seat pans are the same for the enclosed and open models except for the latches. The enclosed model had a cupboard or furniture latch at the back of the seat and the open models had half spring clips on the bottom of the seats (that were not made of spring steel). Your pan would work best on an open model because the latch system on the enclosed model requires a close fit to the tub so the ball latches interesect. I think that is the problem Phil is having as the aftemarket seat is too short to close the gap in the back where the latch is mounted. I also think that because the seat was formed on a brake, as oposted to the original, it might not clear the tire well in the tub of the enclosed model because the tub is quite rounded and the seat is quite sqaure. This is not a problem on the open model.

I also have a complete set of molds for the enclosed models. I always made the seat pans out of steel, so I never made a mold for the seat like the very industrious Phil Primer. I did make a mold for the truncated rear inner mudguard which was originally steel.

David
 

Phil Mahood

VOC Hon. Computer Officer
VOC Member
Tony,
Thanks for the tips, especially with regard to Peter Gerrish. Peter is still a VOC member. I'll get in touch with him and see if he will make us a couplke of seat pans. Anyone else interested?
 
Last edited:

Phil Mahood

VOC Hon. Computer Officer
VOC Member
Thank you, everyone. This has certainly become a fulsome discussion of an obscure topic. It is particularly interesting because it reflects the fact that much of the Series "D" was put together on the fly, on the shop floor, rather than the drawing board.

Don Morris' contribution likely solves the mystery of the source of my seat. The measured length, the shape and location of holes, and the metal folds all line up. Don's seat pan was sourced in 1974, which is also the rough age of the one we have here. Alas, this pan will be too short, and will certainly not fit an enclosed model.

All the photes of latch solutions are very helpful. Even if many of these are for securing to the seat frame rails of the open model, having all this here makes the discussion complete.

In that regard, we have yet another home grown solution on an open model here in Ontario. On this bike, there is a metal strap welded across the seat rails with two holes drilled. The seat is simple bolted down to this bridge by screws through the bottom of the pan. Unfortunately, this simple bodge negates the handy feature of being able swing the seat up for quick access to the oil filler. But, it is secure!

The conclusions and path forward are clear. The seat pan I have won't cut it. We'll need a longer base that clears the enclosure's wheel hump. We'll need the seat to sit down on the enclosure. Finally, we'll fashion a latch, or some form of pins and grommets to stop lateral movement. Off to the hardware store we go! Here in Canada we have Home Depot, a gigantic franchise of superstores open 24/7. I've spent many an hour there solving just this sort of problem. Cheers, all.
 
Last edited:

BigEd

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
Thank you, everyone. This has certainly become a fulsome discussion of an obscure topic. It is particularly interesting because it reflects the fact that much of the Series "D" was put together on the fly, on the shop floor, rather than the drawing board.

Don Morris' contribution likely solves the mystery of the source of my seat. The measured length, the shape and location of holes, and the metal folds all line up. Don's seat pan was sourced in 1974, which is also the rough age of the one we have here. Alas, this pan will be too short, and will certainly not fit an enclosed model.

All the photos of latch solutions are very helpful. Even if many of these are for securing to the seat frame rails of the open model, having all this here makes the discussion complete.

In that regard, we have yet another home grown solution on an open model here in Ontario. On this bike, there is a metal strap welded across the seat rails with two holes drilled. The seat is simple bolted down to this bridge by screws through the bottom of the pan. Unfortunately, this simple bodge negates the handy feature of being able swing the seat up for quick access to the oil filler. But, it is secure!

The conclusions and path forward are clear. The seat pan I have won't cut it. We'll need a longer base that clears the enclosure's wheel hump. We'll need the seat to sit down on the enclosure. Finally, we'll fashion a latch, or some form of pins and grommets to stop lateral movement. Off to the hardware store we go! Here in Canada we have Home Depot, a gigantic franchise of superstores open 24/7. I've spent many an hour there solving just this sort of problem. Cheers, all.

A great feature of a forum like this is highlighted here. Even on a relatively obscure topic like "D" seats owners can compare solutions to problems posted by other owners and be guided to what will work for them.
A question now rather that a solution. Was Phil Irving involved with the "D" at any stage or was he back in Australia? I feel that he would have come up with a simple and practical solution to the seat and fastening.
Am I right or (more usual) wrong?
 
Top