Happy Birthday Norman, Stay Cool .
C: Clutch Series ‘C’ Rapide Clutch Slip
- Thread starter danno
- Start date
should not be any oil/grease on any friction surface, be very sparing with the lubricating of the clutch rod lifting abutment in he primary plate C42/1.
you will find this tool great for holding the clutch assembly when tightening/ loosening the clutch nut , with out doing damage to other components, I have found it to be the best way of holding the clutch. and to easy to make.
see mph 470
I have just spoken to my mate Norman Walker and we will look into having a few manufactured at a cost of around £10 each if you are interested please let me know.
Well, all set to go to vehicle show with cleaned up clutch and new tyres and then no charge from the Alton.
Had a brief look with a multitester but too hot with all the gear on to be fiddling about. Went on the R60 instead.
I did notice the other day that one of the Lucas connectors for the Alton had come apart but reconnected and thought would be good.
Still nothing at the battery or headlight meter but hopefully will be something simple.
It’s supplied with no connectors so will need to solder join or maybe use a locking plug.
Had a brief look with a multitester but too hot with all the gear on to be fiddling about. Went on the R60 instead.
I did notice the other day that one of the Lucas connectors for the Alton had come apart but reconnected and thought would be good.
Still nothing at the battery or headlight meter but hopefully will be something simple.
It’s supplied with no connectors so will need to solder join or maybe use a locking plug.
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Have had a look and the Alton Polyamide gear isn’t spinning properly and a few teeth have worn away.
Can’t have done any more than 150 miles.
I have the original Miller gear but don’t think it’s the same fitting.
New one needed I guess.
Can’t have done any more than 150 miles.
I have the original Miller gear but don’t think it’s the same fitting.
New one needed I guess.
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BTH components where I bought the Alton say they’re not sure if there’s a metal sprocket available.
Have offered to contact them.
There’s a lot of useful info on my other post on fitting the Alton. Even going as far as involving the ESA and cam modification.
Also there’s a shim available for adjustment.
From Greg Brillus:
‘However, the issue with the Alton's and their supplied plastic gear is mostly a meshing problem.......And also the plastic gear has teeth that are wider than the stock steel item, so there is less side movement, that coupled to sloppy chainwheel bushes, and if the alton is not centered correctly will end up in rapid ware of the plastic item..........I've seen it a few times now.’
Bit disappointed with the sprocket wearing out, given the very few miles it’s done. Maybe it’s a problem area reading the posts about modifications.
Hopefully a simple fix as I haven’t the time to sort that and address the suspension, rack, indicators and broken strut.
Have offered to contact them.
There’s a lot of useful info on my other post on fitting the Alton. Even going as far as involving the ESA and cam modification.
Also there’s a shim available for adjustment.
From Greg Brillus:
‘However, the issue with the Alton's and their supplied plastic gear is mostly a meshing problem.......And also the plastic gear has teeth that are wider than the stock steel item, so there is less side movement, that coupled to sloppy chainwheel bushes, and if the alton is not centered correctly will end up in rapid ware of the plastic item..........I've seen it a few times now.’
Bit disappointed with the sprocket wearing out, given the very few miles it’s done. Maybe it’s a problem area reading the posts about modifications.
Hopefully a simple fix as I haven’t the time to sort that and address the suspension, rack, indicators and broken strut.
I thought it was a different fitting design.
Probably because it's secured with two Allen bolts rather than a nut.
I have the original steel sprocket PD15/1
so will try that.
Just took the Rap for a spin and the clutch is much improved since cleaning up the friction material.
The steel sprocket, now I’ve managed to fit it, works great. The plastic one is really not worth fitting.
Other fairly large jobs that need doing soon are:
Sorting out the dreadful brakes
Fitting better indicators
Sorting backfires
Trying to keep the oil on the inside
Regarding the oil, probably better in a seperate post but I always have to keep a large metal tray under the engine.
There’s a line of blue Hylomar long the crankcase underside, some of which has come away. I’m thinking it’ll be a big job to try and stop the leak.
Thanks anyway for the help with the clutch and sprocket.
The steel sprocket, now I’ve managed to fit it, works great. The plastic one is really not worth fitting.
Other fairly large jobs that need doing soon are:
Sorting out the dreadful brakes
Fitting better indicators
Sorting backfires
Trying to keep the oil on the inside
Regarding the oil, probably better in a seperate post but I always have to keep a large metal tray under the engine.
There’s a line of blue Hylomar long the crankcase underside, some of which has come away. I’m thinking it’ll be a big job to try and stop the leak.
Thanks anyway for the help with the clutch and sprocket.
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Try all your crankcase bolts, mine leaked like that and I found some of the bolts slack.
What brakes do you have presently, mine are pretty good, I have alloy brake plates with heavy duty cables and rear brake arms on the front, these are about 50% longer and help a lot.
I have a home made 8" TLS brake in my 11-50 Brough that uses Commando shoes and it has always been poor, I recently had the shoes relined by Saftek with their soft, high friction material and the difference is incredible, a real brake, and I mean a real brake, and that was without turning the shoes as they were fractionally undersize anyway.
It's a woven green/yellow sintered material.
What brakes do you have presently, mine are pretty good, I have alloy brake plates with heavy duty cables and rear brake arms on the front, these are about 50% longer and help a lot.
I have a home made 8" TLS brake in my 11-50 Brough that uses Commando shoes and it has always been poor, I recently had the shoes relined by Saftek with their soft, high friction material and the difference is incredible, a real brake, and I mean a real brake, and that was without turning the shoes as they were fractionally undersize anyway.
It's a woven green/yellow sintered material.
I think they’re original but restored. The front drums have five cooling rings or ribs and the plates have a chrome outer edge. There was enough on the shoes when I had the wheel off for a tyre change. Have set them up as per the handbook.