C: Clutch Series ‘C’ Rapide Clutch Slip

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timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Yes, go for the Hylomar. I believe there is a better way but that requires moire time and I guess you would like to be on the road as soon as possible
 
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Peter Holmes

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VOC Member
danno said:
Thanks. I have 'Know Thy Beast', Riders Handbook, spare parts list and loads of old documents, maintenance sheets etc.
I do lack a lathe, pillar drill/hobby mill but do most work myself.
Changed out mag for an Alton, tyres, servicing, electrics etc.
More spannering than riding but I have my two BM's for regular use.
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I don't want to appear overly pedantic, but I doubt you would have "Changed out a magneto for an Alton, unless I am behind the times.
 
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stumpy lord

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Non-VOC Member
timetraveller said:
Yes, go for the Hylomar. I believe there is a better way but that requires moire time and I guess you would like to be on the road as soon as possible
timetraveller said:
Yes, go for the Hylomar. I believe there is a better way but that requires moire time and I guess you would like to be on the road as soon as possible
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tony maughan and sons supply a clutch carrier seal special C18/3 which I have found to be superior to all the other clutch seals that are available and only costs £2. 50
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if you have access to MPH number 470, their in is the drawing of a tool that is mighty usfull when holding the clutch for stripping.
 
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danno

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timetraveller said:
Ignore the large nut. There are nine countersunk headed screws which hold the ring in the middle of the outer plate. These have to be undone and they can be a pain if their slots are worn or otherwise mutilated. I suggest that you start with the middle one of each or the three sets and undo those about one full turn. Then undo the outer pari of each of the three sets about three turns each. Then go back to the centre ones and undo those about another two turns. Then completely undo the outer two of each set and finally fully undo the centre ones and then you can remove the ring, the outer plare of the servo clutch, the friction disc and so on. Refer to your books or parts list as to what goes where and if any doubt lay the parts out in order on a clean sheet of cloth or paper. Eventually you will get to the stage where the clutch shoes are visible. Now you have to remove the spring with acts as a retaner for the slotted nut which holds on the clutch shoe carrier. Remove that nut by putting the bike in gear, blocking the rear wheel by using a piece of woos across the rear frame and under one of the spoke nuts to stop the rear wheel rotating and then undo the slotted but. It will depend upon what model and age of bike you have as to what you will find under that nut. After all that you should be able to pull out the shoe carrier and shoes. If it has been put on with sealing compound on the splines you might struggle but it will come off eventually and then you can see the inside of the clutch drum. Follow all the steps in the books and ask questions before forcing anything.
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Thanks for the help.
Definitely more bite in the clutch now. It’s possible that the slip was due to the retaining nut not being tight.
 
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Peter Holmes

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VOC Member
danno said:
Thanks for the help.
Definitely more bite in the clutch now. It’s possible that the slip was due to the retaining nut not being tight.
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If we are talking about the C20 nut being loose, then you can lose the clutch lever, or should I say you will lose the ability to disengage the clutch, and if the C20 continues to loosen, eventually the clutch lever will come all the way back to the handlebar, but it won't disengage the clutch, I think there is a requirement for the C20 to be tight, as tight as possible, but allowing engagement of the C45 locking tang in a shaft slot, but it is unlikely that if the C20 nut is loose, that it would cause clutch slip.
 
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