C: Clutch Series ‘C’ Rapide Clutch Slip

danno

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Just put your finger inside the inspection cap and try to push to top of the lever inwards and outwards. Does it move? If not then there is no clearance between the actuating lever and the clutch push rod. If it moves in and out, say, a tenth of an inch then there is clearance and you have to look elsewhere for your problem, probably oil contamination.
There’s movement in the lever.
Looking in the handbook under clutch slip, it suggests, after correct adjustment to inspect the shoe linings.
It says to detach the outer clutch plate but not how to.
I’m not sure if this is via the ring/springs with nine bolts or the large nut.
 

timetraveller

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Ignore the large nut. There are nine countersunk headed screws which hold the ring in the middle of the outer plate. These have to be undone and they can be a pain if their slots are worn or otherwise mutilated. I suggest that you start with the middle one of each or the three sets and undo those about one full turn. Then undo the outer pari of each of the three sets about three turns each. Then go back to the centre ones and undo those about another two turns. Then completely undo the outer two of each set and finally fully undo the centre ones and then you can remove the ring, the outer plare of the servo clutch, the friction disc and so on. Refer to your books or parts list as to what goes where and if any doubt lay the parts out in order on a clean sheet of cloth or paper. Eventually you will get to the stage where the clutch shoes are visible. Now you have to remove the spring with acts as a retaner for the slotted nut which holds on the clutch shoe carrier. Remove that nut by putting the bike in gear, blocking the rear wheel by using a piece of woos across the rear frame and under one of the spoke nuts to stop the rear wheel rotating and then undo the slotted but. It will depend upon what model and age of bike you have as to what you will find under that nut. After all that you should be able to pull out the shoe carrier and shoes. If it has been put on with sealing compound on the splines you might struggle but it will come off eventually and then you can see the inside of the clutch drum. Follow all the steps in the books and ask questions before forcing anything.
 

danno

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Non-VOC Member
Ignore the large nut. There are nine countersunk headed screws which hold the ring in the middle of the outer plate. These have to be undone and they can be a pain if their slots are worn or otherwise mutilated. I suggest that you start with the middle one of each or the three sets and undo those about one full turn. Then undo the outer pari of each of the three sets about three turns each. Then go back to the centre ones and undo those about another two turns. Then completely undo the outer two of each set and finally fully undo the centre ones and then you can remove the ring, the outer plare of the servo clutch, the friction disc and so on. Refer to your books or parts list as to what goes where and if any doubt lay the parts out in order on a clean sheet of cloth or paper. Eventually you will get to the stage where the clutch shoes are visible. Now you have to remove the spring with acts as a retaner for the slotted nut which holds on the clutch shoe carrier. Remove that nut by putting the bike in gear, blocking the rear wheel by using a piece of woos across the rear frame and under one of the spoke nuts to stop the rear wheel rotating and then undo the slotted but. It will depend upon what model and age of bike you have as to what you will find under that nut. After all that you should be able to pull out the shoe carrier and shoes. If it has been put on with sealing compound on the splines you might struggle but it will come off eventually and then you can see the inside of the clutch drum. Follow all the steps in the books and ask questions before forcing anything.
That’s great, thanks.
 

danno

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Down to the shoe carrier but won’t seem to come out.
The large nut has shims and didn’t seem to be very tight at all.
There’s a little oil on the friction plate.
 

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danno

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Have pulled out the carrier as far as it will go with the foot peg there.
No signs of oil on the shoe friction material so will probably reassemble and see if it’s improved.
 

timetraveller

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You can remove the foot peg totally without causing any future problems. Just undo the nut which holds it onto the stud and tapered spacer and take the thing off. You can fold it backwards out of the way using the cable to support it. Once you have the shoes out you can check that the two plungers are working properly just with finger pressure. Also check inside the tube of the shoe carrier that any old sealing compuund is removed.
 

danno

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I have a D type stand and the footpeg is turning the alloy spacer. Seems to be tight to get off.
The shoe friction material has dark and light areas. Maybe that’s where it’s in contact.
 

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timetraveller

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If you look at the inner end of the alloy spacer you will see that it is 'D' shaped. This should stop it rotating. Move it as far as you can in the correct direction and then use either your foot, a rubber mallet or an iron mallet with a piece of wood to give it a sharp jerk and the foot rest will come loose. When you are in there it is worth checking the six small holes at the rear inner edge/corner of the clutch drum are clear. Compressed air or a small drill or piece of wire will clear them out of any acciumulation of oil and dust. The clutch shoes look to be as new and clean but I am not sure about the reason for the clean area at the end. Are both shoes the same?
 

danno

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Done it, thanks.
Just wasn’t sure how it was fitted on.
All looks dry in there. Both shoes have similar wear with untouched grey areas
near the edges of the friction material.
 

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danno

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Non-VOC Member
When you are in there it is worth checking the six small holes at the rear inner edge/corner of the clutch drum are clear. Compressed air or a small drill or piece of wire will clear them out of any acciumulation of oil and dust.

Thanks. Wouldn’t have noticed them.
For the splines, all I have is Blue Hylomar. Take it that’s the same as non-setting
gasket cement.
 
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