If you use something like this: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/54/twistwrap-sleeving it closes up on itself once you wrap it around the cables. I've used it in the past and it works quite well
Misc: Charging Systems Series ‘C’ Rapide Battery Not Charging
- Thread starter danno
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It's early days, Once it's running OK, You can always go back and tidy up.
Cheers Bill.
Cheers Bill.
All my control wiring goes through my handlebars and not a single wire is outside of the bars. This will cause a real headache if I ever have to replace the bars, but it sure looks clean. I put the McDouglator regulator under the battery tray too. My battery tray supports grow into the seat(s) and pannier mounts, This is an old pic, I now have struts that go the the foot-pegs...not the perfect place to mount them, should be on engine, but they work.The new podtronics regs will not fit inside an original Miller box, they are too big. I mount them under the battery tray with 2 countersunk head screws, plenty of air flow and no ugly modern devices visible.........Just my way of doing it. My 2 pet hates on old bikes..........Poor wiring and components that look hideous, modern crimp connectors especially, and control cables that are draped over the engine, mostly because people don't know how to route them correctly, why hide one of the prettiest engines in motorcycling history with ugly spiders webs of cables and wiring. Just waiting for the flack from all the experts now............
For all the wiring that goes to the rear I put it in shrink tubing, and shrunk only the ends. I then laid two strips of masking tape on the under-side of the RFM, put GOOP on, laid the shrink tubing on, tied it with string, them removed the masking tape. The GOOP will PEEL off if you pull it gently, slowly. It's been in place for over 20 years and is one of the best ideas I've had on the machine. The wires are protected and out of sight. But I have too many under the left side and they 'mess' with the throttle cable on idle, when the bike is on the side stand, so I don't trust the idle. I should have cut a tunnel in the tank.
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Not sure about very tidy wiring I once knew a secretary who was always asking for her desk to be rearanged if even an inch of cable or fibre was visible to her PC or printer. Then one day I had to sort out her PC directory I have never seen such a shambolic arrangement in my life how she ever found a file I do not know.
I once knew a secretary who was always asking for her desk to be rearanged if even an inch of cable or fibre was visible to her PC or printer. Then one day I had to sort out her PC directory I have never seen such a shambolic arrangement in my life how she ever found a file I do not know.Help please!
I have a Miller DVR dynamo on my bike, which is running at 12V, presently in a simple field + rotor ‘shunt’ configuration, with an AO electronic regulator. The original cut-out and double-wound field coil are intact, though I haven’t got a regulator cartridge. Can anyone remember using this type, with or without the regulator? Apparently it is possible to use it with the cut-out and no regulator, although with reduced power output. I need some advice from someone who understands the functioning of the original setup!
The wiring diagrams and illustration in the Riders’ Handbook, Stevens, and Richardson are all of the DVR, although none names it as such. The latter refers to it as a D6 although the drawing shows the ‘Type DVR’ on the end cover.
Any advice / comments welcome. Thanks.
I have a Miller DVR dynamo on my bike, which is running at 12V, presently in a simple field + rotor ‘shunt’ configuration, with an AO electronic regulator. The original cut-out and double-wound field coil are intact, though I haven’t got a regulator cartridge. Can anyone remember using this type, with or without the regulator? Apparently it is possible to use it with the cut-out and no regulator, although with reduced power output. I need some advice from someone who understands the functioning of the original setup!
The wiring diagrams and illustration in the Riders’ Handbook, Stevens, and Richardson are all of the DVR, although none names it as such. The latter refers to it as a D6 although the drawing shows the ‘Type DVR’ on the end cover.
I believe the DVR is electrically the same as the D6, the difference being that the former is shorter and has lower output.
You don't typically use the cutout with an electronic regulator, so if you're running one it should be disconnected or removed. Wiring is different from Miller standard with electronic regulators, and they usually come with detailed instructions.
Are you having a specific problem with the current configuration?
You don't typically use the cutout with an electronic regulator, so if you're running one it should be disconnected or removed. Wiring is different from Miller standard with electronic regulators, and they usually come with detailed instructions.
Are you having a specific problem with the current configuration?
Thanks for the interest, Lonestar. I'm not using the Miller cutout - this is disconnected. The DVR is identical, dimensionally, to the D6, but the internal wiring is completely different. Apart from having the cutout inside the cover, the pole shoe has 2 windings - a conventional induction coil, and a resistance. Why would they go to the trouble and expense of using an extra winding, instead of a simple proprietary resistor? The cutout also has 2 windings, which may also be the case with the Lucas version, though I've never dismantled one.
There's no (known!) problem with the present set-up, but I'd like to understand what's clever about the original design.
Thanks anyway. Mike
Thanks anyway. Mike