Ooops! I haven't progressed beyond the Series C.
I'll probably get it wrong again, but can you tilt the saddle frame forward and make the tank drain higher than the oil level?
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Running in Questions Series D
- Thread starter macvette
- Start date
Ooops! I haven't progressed beyond the Series C.
I'll probably get it wrong again, but can you tilt the saddle frame forward and make the tank drain higher than the oil level?
Hi
No problem. I'm sure that won't work either. If you go to photos misc 2010 series D and look at pics by Macvette, you can see the oil tank with it's main feed coming from the bottom of the tank. I've tried to attach a pic but if it doesn't work you can look at the above location. I'm going to drop the oil after another 50 miles or so anyway so I can replace the fibre washers on the tank end of the main feed with dowty seals because there is a slight weep there.
Regards Mac
No problem. I'm sure that won't work either. If you go to photos misc 2010 series D and look at pics by Macvette, you can see the oil tank with it's main feed coming from the bottom of the tank. I've tried to attach a pic but if it doesn't work you can look at the above location. I'm going to drop the oil after another 50 miles or so anyway so I can replace the fibre washers on the tank end of the main feed with dowty seals because there is a slight weep there.
Regards Mac
Attachments
I realize you have the bike in front of you and I am just looking at pictures, but the drawing on page 122 of Vincent the Complete Story by Davis Wright shows an enclosed model's tail section in the propped position. The hose connection to the tank looks as if it might be above the oil level and could be disconnected down at the motor and not drain the tank. All moot, though, since you want to replace the A27's.
My enclosed oil tank has its banjo unions at the bottom but connected to them are copper pipes that follow the bottom/front of the tank before pointing forward in the region of the cowl pivot. Here they have a rubber pipe fitted to allow movement and to connect to C style rigid tubes to the main feed and return banjos. They do not have to be disturbed to remove the kickstart cover, although the exhaust does. Even if they were not so well (thanks Mac) routed down the space between timing chest and kickstart cover I would not expect to need to remove them to adjust the gear change. Surely the bike was designed so that such things could be done by the roadside?
Cheers,
Cheers,
If I were you I'd stay on SAE 30. Even in summer a Vin doesn't get that hot, and I've lagged my UFM with radiator foil which is the only way to stop emulsification. (My nomination for "The Chocolate Fireguard Award": an oil cooler on a Vincent.)
Apropos running in, you've already had very good advice: don't thrash it and don't slog it. That probably means keeping it between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Bear in mind that in the 1950's "finish machining" was done by the customer over the first 1500 miles, hence the lengthy running-in periods. 1500 miles at gentle speeds also ate into the warranty time: not an issue for Vincent probably, but certainly elsewhere.
Just to put the other side of the equation: race bikes, from brand new, are run in at not more than 6000 rpm for often as many as 15 miles. TZ Yamahas were run-in for the length of the paddock... Then it's "the hammer"...
Apropos running in, you've already had very good advice: don't thrash it and don't slog it. That probably means keeping it between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Bear in mind that in the 1950's "finish machining" was done by the customer over the first 1500 miles, hence the lengthy running-in periods. 1500 miles at gentle speeds also ate into the warranty time: not an issue for Vincent probably, but certainly elsewhere.
Just to put the other side of the equation: race bikes, from brand new, are run in at not more than 6000 rpm for often as many as 15 miles. TZ Yamahas were run-in for the length of the paddock... Then it's "the hammer"...
the only thing you are "running in" is the pistons + rings. the rest is all rolling element bearings, these do not run in they only run out! the don't slog it but don't over speed it approach is my reccomendation. lots of charges from 50-75 mph will be better than a constant(and boring) 50, also a shed load more fun! an oil change at about 500 miles -if you make this in a season would be a good idea.
Modern bikes are a bit different. This is an Eric Buell Racing (post Harley) 1190 build and dyno run. The break in starts at about 3:50 minutes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQPKYnM3jfI
The bracket on a car engine stand to let you assemble on both sides is interesting. Also, the 6mm/1/4" case bolts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQPKYnM3jfI
The bracket on a car engine stand to let you assemble on both sides is interesting. Also, the 6mm/1/4" case bolts.
Macvette, nice looking D, could you e mail me direct that and any other pics of your D to tonydreview@hotmail.com. Also, I have implemented your suggestd open D conduit fix for the seat attachment,. Works like a hot damn. many thanks for the tip.
Tony
Tony
Thanks for all of the replies, I'll take this piece of advice, I've been varying the speeds like this after the first hundred miles although only up 65 or so, the engine feels much happier this way. I also lifted the needles one notch and the pipe colour is much reduced. I'll try adjusting the pilots next.
I'd still like some hands on tips on adjusting the selector in addition to what's in the books if there is any out there.
As far as the oil pipe routing goes, I had to replace the original engine - end pipes because they were beyond reclaiming but I still have them. I replaced them with parts from the VOC. The originals have at least 3 or 4 subtle bends in them which allowed them to be routed much more neatly close to the timing cover and it maybe that the kick start cover could have been removed if they were still there. The new pipes were a poor fit and I had to bend them significantly to get them to fit even as you see them now. In fact the engine side feed pipe pointed directly into the centre of the battery before I bent it so it wasn't even possible to route the rubber portion sensibly so I will have to remove them to adjust the gear change but that's not a problem.
Regard Mac
250 miles on the bike now and changed the oil. Going for runs not less than 30 miles and varying speed in the appropriate gears 55 to 60 on the flat in top on a light throttle seems to suit the engine nicely. No oil leaks. Gear change issue seems to have been a mixture of footpeg/ gear lever position/technique so I haven't been inside the kickstart cover. Managed to shed the rear number plate and light, must have been the only bolts I hadn't tightness tested! Fortunately my mate picked it up ( I had no idea it had gone). I'm going to do a little tweaking on the carbs after my next run having drilled and tapped for vacuum gauge connections when I rebuilt the bike. Should be interesting.
Regards Mac
Regards Mac