What's the 'normal' repair for any wear in the RFM where the FT66 (cross shaft) passes through. I'm more concerned that greasing that cavity will just result in grease exiting by the clearance rather than getting to the taper bearings. Perhaps I should also ask 'what's OK wear?'.
FT: Frame (Twin) RFM wear through the FT66 bore
- Thread starter Steve F
- Start date
I put corks in mine, shaft, crank arms, brake rods, cable stop, spring and the three s/s trunions into box marked original spare parts. Then went back about twenty years to the model "P" and use it's set up, where by the cable from the brake pedal is led back to a cable stop mounted onto seat stay lug, then just the Bowden cable is passed through a 1/4" BSF threaded bar (fitting the old wing nuts) at the rear brake arm trunions. Bowden cable is then sheathed again going behind the rear mudguard to the RH brake arm, again a sheath stopper, but cable going through 1/4" BSF shaft & trunion with wing nut, an aluminium sleeve I've used from the forward end of the brake arm trunion with a compression spring (clutch origin) with a final cable stopper / adjuster. The sleeve is used to operate the brake light switch, not necessary if micro switch is used at brake pedal. Also rear brake arms shortened by an inch, as too much movement at pedal. Lighter system freer in operation and a better brake as same power going to each drum is identical. Hands up who can do that by adjusting wing nuts 1/52" at a time to get it right !!!!
Any one really interested say so and I take photos of the system. It was when the Model "P" was at the spares company I saw it and thought that's the way,,,,, as I was always thinking of the front brake balance beam.
bananaman.
Any one really interested say so and I take photos of the system. It was when the Model "P" was at the spares company I saw it and thought that's the way,,,,, as I was always thinking of the front brake balance beam.
bananaman.
The 'ultimate' fix to protect the tapered roller bearings in the RFM is to fit NILOS seals to BOTH sides of each bearing and that will fully protect them.
A NILOS-Ring that seals the outer of the roller bearing ring is described a type “AV” . A NILOS-Ring that seals the inner of the roller bearing ring is described as a type “JV” .
You can find out more about NILOS seals here
http://www.nilos-ring.com/default.aspx/G/111327/A/2/R/-1/l/1033
Also the application of NILOS seals to wheel bearings (also tapered rollers) is a feature item in the September edition of OVR
Photos please Marcus. Cheers Bill.
Martyn
I am pretty sure he is referring to the brake arm crossover shaft. No tapered rollers here.
Oh No !, What have I done !. Cheers Bill.
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Yes it's this new Petrol, Don't know what they put in it !. Cheers Bill.
Thanks for the contributions. I will put the Nilos "seals" on the "taper bearings" at least that will reduce the tendency for grease to squirt out there and dirt to get in. I'd still be interested to know if anyone has bushed the cross over shaft bore and if so are there some nice standard size bushes that do the job. Plan B is I'll just leave it and somebody else can deal with it one day !
Hello Steve, That rear pivot is well made, I have never had trouble, I have not touched the frame with all the holes in 40 years, Used in all weathers on the road and raced.
My other Vins are standard ish, If the bearings are put together with heavy grease, They should be fine.
The only thing I would say is don't use a Power Washer to clean the Bike, It seems to be the thing people do nowadays, I don't think it is good, Just quick, But not in the long run.
Good Luck, Bill.