RFM lug cracked

notap

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Hi, I'm hoping with your wealth of knowledge, I can get some advice (I am a VOC member, but my email/isp has caused some problems logging in).

I have finally got my Shadow registered and on the road. The weather is warming here in Aus and it's a joy to ride. I notice after returning from a long bumpy ride that a crack has developed in the brazing on the right hand RFM fork lug. I haven't been kicking it over on the rear stand etc, as I installed a new centre stand. The crack may have been there before and I just didnt notice. My wife says its caused by God punishing me for spending more time and money on the bike than her. That aside, I would appreciate some advice on how to fix this. Do I need to pull it apart and then get someone to rebraze? Do I need a new lug? I assume the lug simply inserts into the fork and then it is brazed? Ive tried to attached a photo of the offending item to this post. I thank you for your time. This is a wonderful club and forum and I have found the advice an information invaluable. Rob
 

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Chris Weir

Forum User
VOC Member
Hi notap, Same thing happened on my twin about 12mths ago also r/h lug.I purchased new lug from Spares Co (arrived in 4 days to Vic Aust)Removed and stripped RFM. My local engineering shop were able to remove cracked lug and with the aid of mandrels thru pivot bearings and axle slots to maintain alignment then rebraze new lug.While apart I fish oiled bearing cavity and repacked bearings.I can be contacted on 0353671205 hope this helps........Chris
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
That's a shame Rob. Yep, pull it off & don't even think of riding it. Check the availability of lugs from the spares company & start asking around for competent metal workers. It would be great if you could find a real blacksmith!! When I was in the air force they had just discovered that they needed a blacksmith; amazing!! Give Terry Prince a ring as he may know someone who is capable. The RFM will then need re-painting & hopefully it will match all the other black stuff. As Chris says, use the opportunity to check everything else & that will be one problem that should not recur in the next 20 years.
 

Ken Tidswell

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
A quick repair suggested by PEI is to braze a piece of sheet steel the outline of the lug onto the inner face of the fork end. And there you are. Otherwise a new fork end from the VOCSC. So you could be riding sooner than you think
 

clevtrev

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Here`s what you do in this situation. The crack is at the end of the tube, quite common, although to call it a crack is wrong, it`s a break, or it was before it was repaired, and that was not up to the job.
Drill through from the rear of the lug, fit a piece of solid bar through the hole into the tube, and braze away, takes a LOT of heat. No need to worry about the hole in the lug, its only a hole that`s never used. I welded my one years ago when it went, but yours has had a braze job done on it before, ayt least that`s what it looks like in the picture, but I could be wrong, it obviously happened before you obtained it. That means now it cannot be welded.
 
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notap

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks for your reply (and all the others). I have sent away for a new lug, but in the interim, is the lug able to be welded (assuming I remove the old brazing). I assume the lug is made from good quality steel and can easily hold a weld? Thanks
 

peterg

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Howdy Chaps,

Anyone think it odd that lug would crack there? Everyone's probably seen the axle slots of these poor lugs spread wide apart from overzealous engine starting while the machine on the rear stand without even cracking. In answer to whether these can be "welded", not knowing any better at the time, I will say yes, with a standard 110 mig using .025 wire in my case - that's the extent of the technical explanation.

My Shadow had a hopelessly stripped left side axle adjuster containing the matching rfm #, I wasn't changing it out. I bored a slightly oversized hole on the load side (inside the lug fork) of the adjuster hole, turned down a nut of the suitable thread pitch into tube shape, cut small slots on either side of the lug at the root of the adjustment slot to enable good weld penetration, inserted that now tube shaped nut in in against the land in the base of the bore and welded it up around its permiter and from both sides.

Think I might be tempted to take a Dremel slot out that crack and weld it up, least for now.
 

clevtrev

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Howdy Chaps,

Anyone think it odd that lug would crack there? Everyone's probably seen the axle slots of these poor lugs spread wide apart from overzealous engine starting while the machine on the rear stand without even cracking. In answer to whether these can be "welded", not knowing any better at the time, I will say yes, with a standard 110 mig using .025 wire in my case - that's the extent of the technical explanation.

My Shadow had a hopelessly stripped left side axle adjuster containing the matching rfm #, I wasn't changing it out. I bored a slightly oversized hole on the load side (inside the lug fork) of the adjuster hole, turned down a nut of the suitable thread pitch into tube shape, cut small slots on either side of the lug at the root of the adjustment slot to enable good weld penetration, inserted that now tube shaped nut in in against the land in the base of the bore and welded it up around its permiter and from both sides.

Think I might be tempted to take a Dremel slot out that crack and weld it up, least for now.
On my one which snapped there was about 1/32" of material between the bottom of the drilled hole and the outside, it was not, rather nowhere, near the centre of the body.
Notap, I`ll give you something to try. Put the bike on the rear stand, and remove the rear wheel, then tell me what happens to that crack.
 
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