Actually...I use crimp on ferrules, I dont crimp them because I never purchased a crimper. A dollop of gasket goo on the end and the sides of the rubber hose - everywhere that the ferrule contacts the herringbone hose. 2 turns of s/s lockwire..and perhaps most importantly - I don’t have a twin start oil pump..it’s unnecessary and only serves to squeeze the oil out of every nook and cranny..
A: Oil Pipework Return Oil Pressure High?
- Thread starter John Fewster
- Start date
Just had a thought, I wonder if my pulsations are because I don't use an oil filter ?.
Over 50 years and a lot of racing I have had a few disasters !,
And always found BITS all over the place , Evan with a filter,
So now I prefer to have a better flow of oil, Without A filter, And anything heavy,
Might / Should ?, Stay in the bottom of the oil filter chamber ?.
Just my thoughts !!!.
Over 50 years and a lot of racing I have had a few disasters !,
And always found BITS all over the place , Evan with a filter,
So now I prefer to have a better flow of oil, Without A filter, And anything heavy,
Might / Should ?, Stay in the bottom of the oil filter chamber ?.
Just my thoughts !!!.
Back in the day when I used to run with a felt oil filter I used to check them when doing an oil change, there was always sparkly little pieces of metal embedded in the felt, hardly surprising when on a rebuild it was found that the main bearing had walked and the crankpin nut was grinding itself away on the bearing outer race, a very common occurrence I believe. That fault was corrected (hope it still is) and I now use a club spares style paper filter, it does concern a little whether the rubber seals at each end actually make an oil tight seal on the sand cast aluminium at the back end of the filter housing, but whether it does or not I would always use a filter, and a magnetic sump plug. Phil Irving saw fit to design the engine to run with a filter, and I bow to his knowledge. I own an early Honda motorcycle, a CB77, a very well mechanically designed and manufactured early Honda, when I first purchased the bike in 1999 one of the first things I did was to change the oil and check the filter housing, it does not have a conventional strainer type filter, but runs a high speed rotating cylinder to centrifuge the debris to the internal wall of the cylinder, with the centrifuged clean oil flowing out through a central orifice, well I can tell you the filter cylinder was heavily encrusted with loads of hard, solid debris, probably never been cleaned and only running at a much reduced filtration capacity, this is why we have oil filters, and why we should change them regularly. Obviously Bill has loads of experience and knowledge, and I bow to his achievements, but on this one I think he is wrong, run a filter, you know it makes sense.
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Yes, I had that anomaly, and corrected it with the engine in situ with the judicious use of a decent hole saw, a slow speed cordless drill, and a circular thick piece of plywood to fit into the oil filter housing with a central hole bored in plywood bung to keep the hole saw central to the housing, I sort of know what I did, even it sounds terrible, I think I did put a more detailed account on the forum a few years back, but it worked just fine, removed the casting eccentricity and hopefully now making a good seal with the oil filter.
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Yes the Jubilee clip temproary solution has worked. Oil bubbling up into tank as should and not a weep from pipe. Think combination of chrome pipe, non-setting Hylomar and loose ferrule was problem. I will replace unsightly Jubilees with wire in grooves under nice firm new S/S ferrules when I can get round to it... many thanks for all helpful comments!