The newer available mudguard sets are made of thicker alloy sheet than the originals. My take on the Birmabright guards is they were around 32 thou thick, the newer ones are at least 50 plus. This seems a good idea on account of the material not having the same strength as the originals which were a type of clad alloy, much stronger than the soft alloy ones now like malleable iron, this material seems to be no longer available. The only real issue is the overlap tongue of the rear flap that sits under the very rear edge of the forward main mudguard section, 2 ways around this is to either bend the trailing edge of the main guard upward to clear the flap tongue or simply trim this tongue off flat and square to the main guard. I have found the latter to be easier and much quicker. If you do not do one of these mods, the side on alignment of the 2 guard sections will be out significantly, and this looks terrible, the flap section sitting way below the forward section. Setting this up takes some considerable patience. Do not rely on the flap/rear hinge parts on their own to set this difficult alignment up. You also need to have the PR 27 number plate, the rear stand anchor plate and the stand all in place as well. This is because with the rear stand lifted to its correct height to do up the tommy bar, the rear flap generally moves backwards toward the stand, thus the gap between the 2 guard sections will "Open up" leaving a bigger than wanted gap at the guard/hinge joint. It is little wonder when you remove a set of old guards, that the holes, particularly where the rear hinge bolts on, to be elongated, some far worse than others. Although this looks ugly, it is not visible under the hinge, unless you really have done a big number in getting it all wrong. All good fun really. Cheers.
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