C: Clutch Refreshing Vincent Twin Clutch seals and pieces

stu spalding

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In order to lock the twin gearbox sprocket try making this up to jam against the casing. Cheers, Stu.

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greg brillus

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That's a novel looking device there Stu...........:)............. I do the same but with a piece of left over chain, the offcut from a 120 link length usually. This works well to install and remove the sprocket nut as well.
 

Bill Thomas

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I love the RED stuff, We had one the other day, That was SO tight to get off, Don't know what it was, But I find the RED stuff just right. Cheers Bill.
 

oexing

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There are a LOT of very different Loctite products and you will find a type for your specific problem for sure. For easier disassembling I recommended the low strength 222 for use on the spline and on the C 20 thread. That will be not too hard to undo. But you can test it on any other items to get a feel. I would not use a type of non-settling cement as it would not position the joint rigidly like a settling type. As I said, whenever there is slack in the splines you will not get a permanently tight C 20 nut because of subsequent wear in the train of components on the gearshaft. Exchanging the worn carrier with new will not help much as the gearshaft will have same amount of wear on its own spline. So not a big point in doing up that nut excessively, will not last long for obvious reason.

Vic
Info on Loctite types :
Loctite
 

Bill Thomas

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I was looking in my early "Know Thy Beast", For something else,
" On some machines the clutch nut is occasionally found loose with the locking wire still in position, Most probably, This is the because the carrier is bound to rock slightly on it's splines, Causing end wear somewhere in the assembly, The only real remedy is to check the nut for tightness periodically".
I don't agree with every thing Eddy says, But I have found this.
He also goes on to say the 6 screws that hold the drum on never come loose, Even without the spring washers, But I have had them come loose.
Cheers Bill.
 

BigEd

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I was looking in my early "Know Thy Beast", For something else, .... I don't agree with every thing Eddy says, But I have found this.
He also goes on to say the 6 screws that hold the drum on never come loose, Even without the spring washers, But I have had them come loose.
Cheers Bill.
I fit those with the spring washers, tighten with a good big screwdriver and finally give them one of bump of a hammer using my impact driver.
 

highbury731

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Does no one stuff washing line in the plug hole before tightening up nuts any more? Or has every one got a spindryer
Yes, I used it a few days ago to lock the crank while I tightened up the ESA nut. It should work just as well doing up the clutch centre nut.
 

oexing

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Ed,
spring washers have been shown not to be a real safety item, there are some , few other means of securing bolt joints. In case of those clutch drum screws I would - again - use Loctite on the shank of the screws plus on the threads as well. Target is to fill any gaps in their fit in the through holes plus within the threads as they have to carry the side/shear loads from clutch torque. Where is the problem here not to use Loctite , type 274 medium strength, no trouble with this when undoing them later.

Vic
 

Martyn Goodwin

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Non-VOC Member
My approach is much more primitive. Put it into top gear. put a piece of wood through the spokes, near to where they enter the rim and brace it against the RFM. Tighten away.
Take care - you can easily end up with a bent spoke. A better way is to apply the rear brake with some gusto = a 'stout' assistant is of great help!
 
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