E: Engine Rear Chain Fitting Problems and Tips

timetraveller

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Drag the chain over the final drive sprocket in a clockwise direction, viewed from the timing side of the bike. Then drag it along the floor rearwards until it will hook over lower teeth on the rear wheel sprocket. Then rotate the rear wheel forwards until the chain end is somewhere near the top of the sprocket and then hook up the two ends of the chain with the split link. You might have to continue the rotation until the split link is clear of the brake drum.
 

danno

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Thanks for the reply.
I’m following the Rider’s Handbook and the chain remains linked when taking wheel off.
No mention of unlinking the chain for wheel replacement but maybe this is necessary.
 

TouringGodet

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If there is slack in the chain, it can bind up around the gearbox drive sprocket. Make sure the chain run is taut.
 

danno

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If there is slack in the chain, it can bind up around the gearbox drive sprocket. Make sure the chain run is taut.

Ok thanks.
Must be missing something here. The wheel is fully forward and I hook the chain on to the top of the sprocket.
This is easier than at the bottom as the chain can hang in place.
When I start to rotate the wheel anticlockwise, the chain tightens at the top and stops.
Hooking on the chain from the bottom and rotating clockwise is proving difficult.
 

Nulli Secundus

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Ok thanks.
Must be missing something here. The wheel is fully forward and I hook the chain on to the top of the sprocket.
This is easier than at the bottom as the chain can hang in place.
When I start to rotate the wheel anticlockwise, the chain tightens at the top and stops.
Hooking on the chain from the bottom and rotating clockwise is proving difficult.
If your chain has a connecting link why not make the job easy and use it rather than strain/abuse the chain?
The handbook method is only for instances of wheel removal and fitment without tools. If you persist try getting the chain on before fitting the wheel spindle and brake anchor stays.

Are your sprockets standard size and is the chain length standard? If not that might explain your difficulties.
 

Robert Watson

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Or put the chain on when the wheel is almost installed ie, the axle not yet inserted, and roll it forward on the ground to put the chain on than roll it back and install the axle. One needs the experience of changing a rear flat on the wilds of I 5 Near Mt Shasta in N California with a riveted chain, to figure out what needs to be done! At least I found some shade...

IMG_1966.JPG
 

timetraveller

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Danno, I have never tried to remove a rear wheel without first removing the split link. Truthfully I had not even realised that it was an option, although I can see with Robert's set up it would be necessary. Do yourself a favour and take out the split link.
 

timetraveller

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Yes, he has already told us he has an electric start. That is why he cannot rotate the final drive sprocket backwards. It has got to be easier to remove the split link than the electric start.
 

BigEd

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Yes, he has already told us he has an electric start. That is why he cannot rotate the final drive sprocket backwards. It has got to be easier to remove the split link than the electric start.
I remove the split link anyway to get the chain out of the way making it easier to maneuver the wheel.
I have an electric start. My sprocket turns backward with the gearbox in neutral.
 
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