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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Rapide front brakes
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<blockquote data-quote="stumpy lord" data-source="post: 32501" data-attributes="member: 207"><p>Hi,</p><p> you have here three different problems.</p><p></p><p>1 flexure of the fork bridge plate.</p><p></p><p>2 Flexure of the brake back plates.</p><p></p><p>3 flexure of the brake shoes.</p><p></p><p> number 1 can be cured by fitting an outrigger plate.</p><p></p><p></p><p> Number two by fitting gusset triangls to the back plates.</p><p></p><p></p><p> Number three is a lot harder to sort out due to the fact that when the brake is first applied , the first part of the shoe to contact the drum is the trailing edge, and from then on it is the shoe, due to its fixed pivot points, being forced to bend to contact the rest of the drum. Trever Southwell has a brake set up that has a cut away back plate that allows you to see the opperation of the brake, thats how I know that. The only answer that I know off is to have over size linings fitted to you brake shoes , mount them on your brake bake plates with a shim between the heel of the shoe and the cam, and turn them to suit the dimension of your brake drums.</p><p></p><p> You do not say how good your brake are ? Do you have to pull the lever right back to the bars to get a decent brake effect? or is it</p><p> a case that they are O.k. but you dont like the sponge feeling.</p><p></p><p></p><p> When I had drum brakes on the Vin I would always adjust the cables so that when the front left hand brake was just touching the drum, the right hand one was just about to touch its drum , I mention this because I have seen many members bikes where the right hand brake is trailing a long way behind the the left hand brake,</p><p>. where as both brakes should be sharing the work evenly.</p><p></p><p></p><p> with all these mods it is possible to have front brakes that will squeal the front tyre.</p><p> </p><p> cheers stumpy lord.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="stumpy lord, post: 32501, member: 207"] Hi, you have here three different problems. 1 flexure of the fork bridge plate. 2 Flexure of the brake back plates. 3 flexure of the brake shoes. number 1 can be cured by fitting an outrigger plate. Number two by fitting gusset triangls to the back plates. Number three is a lot harder to sort out due to the fact that when the brake is first applied , the first part of the shoe to contact the drum is the trailing edge, and from then on it is the shoe, due to its fixed pivot points, being forced to bend to contact the rest of the drum. Trever Southwell has a brake set up that has a cut away back plate that allows you to see the opperation of the brake, thats how I know that. The only answer that I know off is to have over size linings fitted to you brake shoes , mount them on your brake bake plates with a shim between the heel of the shoe and the cam, and turn them to suit the dimension of your brake drums. You do not say how good your brake are ? Do you have to pull the lever right back to the bars to get a decent brake effect? or is it a case that they are O.k. but you dont like the sponge feeling. When I had drum brakes on the Vin I would always adjust the cables so that when the front left hand brake was just touching the drum, the right hand one was just about to touch its drum , I mention this because I have seen many members bikes where the right hand brake is trailing a long way behind the the left hand brake, . where as both brakes should be sharing the work evenly. with all these mods it is possible to have front brakes that will squeal the front tyre. cheers stumpy lord. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Rapide front brakes
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